New French Bistro Comes to Clayton

Up and Coming Chefs – Dominique Chambon “Just a good French Cook” By Chef David Darugh

I was told by a friend that Clayton was getting a new French Bistro and that it would be located at the Old Clayton Inn. Being a dedicated foodie, and very much a Francophile I exclaimed “What, a French Bistro in Clayton? Who, when; where do I find out more?”

In our small community it took only a few hours of sleuthing around to learn that “Dominique” was the one in charge. I set out to learn more about Dominique and his venture. When Dominique Chambon stopped by the Beechwood Inn to chat with us I immediately recalled him as the Sommelier at Waterfall Country Club. He is an impeccable man with a wonderful French accent. When I told him I was writing articles about chefs in the North Georgia Mountains his first comment to me was “I am not a chef, just a passable French cook.” Possibly he downplays his talents.

Dominique was born in Paris. His father was in the restaurant and hospitality business all his life. His father also spent 10 years as the butler to the then wealthiest man in the world.  In that position his father was in charge of all hospitality, food, entertaining, and service. The young Dominique was always at his father’s side and learned much about hospitality, service, and importantly food service.  He eventually followed in his father’s footsteps and learned much more while working in France.

He immigrated to New Orleans to work for the famous Cajun/French Chef Pierre Lacoste at his upscale hotel/restaurant Maison Pierre.  During the sojourn in New Orleans Dominique was in charge of the “front of the house.”  This encompasses all aspects of food and wine service, décor, business management and the training of wait staff. He was later recruited to come to Atlanta and work as the Maitre d’ at the new Riviera in Buckhead. Its ambience is that of a French cottage, and eighty percent of the servers were French.  Dominique stayed long enough to become Riviera’s general manager and sommelier.  While he loved the kitchen and continued to cook for fun, his primary responsibilities for the places he worked was to manage the front of the house and ensure friendly and efficient service. 

A friend owned Renee’s Restaurant in Dahlonega, and Dominique was ready for a new challenge. He left Atlanta to work at Renee’s.  But the notion of having his own Bistro soon got the better of him and 6 months later he opened 51 Main Street Bistro in Dahlonega.  After a period of operations he sold the Bistro and returned to France for 2 years; but by then the North Georgia Mountains had smitten him and called for his return.  He came back to Dahlonega and opened Dominique’s Bartini and French Cafe, the first martini bar in North Georgia. Bartini’s served a menu of cocktails and French Bistro foods.  Located on Grove Street it had a wonderful Bistro atmosphere that set itself apart from other restaurants.

When he sold Bartini’s he was recruited to come to Rabun County to work the bar and provide wine service at Waterfall Country Club. It did not take him long, however, to decide that Rabun County is a great place to live and work, so once more his thoughts drifted to operating his own French Bistro.

This brings us up to the present and my curiosity was now fully piqued.  Dominique said he has the same crew that did his renovations in Dahlonega providing the renovations at the Old Clayton Inn restaurant, dining room and patio.  He indicated, they are now getting pretty experienced at creating the ambience I am looking for. Dominique said “I want to create something upscale, but not expensive.  I want simple good food, nothing really fancy. I want guests to feel they have truly stepped off the street and into an authentic French Bistro. There should be tasteful art and décor, perhaps the patio will have some flags and banners.” 

I talked to Dominique about possible menu items and he indicated he would like to offer some French staples such as escargot, onion soup, duck salad, foie gras, seafood gratin and rabbit.  He will have a wine bar and plans to offer cheese plates to go with fine wines. And, of course, some will be some great French wines. And finally live music; perhaps mellow jazz.

He said the important part will be selecting some great people to work at the Bistro.  Having many years experience managing the front of the house, he is confident he can find, recruit and train the right people that will enhance each diner’s Bistro experience. He reiterated that he can only be as good as the people that work for him.

 “So when do you open” I asked with great anticipation on several different levels?  He said he plans a soft opening about mid-April, but all depends on construction and staffing. “Success is imperative; I won’t open until everything is ready.  This is my last restaurant. I want to do a great job and go out on top of my game.”

 Slow down Dominique, I don’t want to hear you talking about going out on top; I have not even dined at your Bistro yet.  Look for the Bistro on South Main Street to open about April 15^th.  Gayle and I plan to be there along with some of fellow Bistro-Trekkies, so better reserve your table soon.  Gayle, I can’t decide between the Boeuf Bourguignon the Seafood Gratin or the Coquilles Saint-Jacques; what are you going to have?

 David  Darugh is co-owner of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant that features fresh and local products.  David was the General Counsel of the American Wine Society from 1990 to 2001.