When Gayle and I contemplate a vacation we engage all of our senses in choosing a destination that will satisfy our wanderlust. In early summer our thoughts drift to the Mendocino Coast and the smell of salt air accompanied by the sound of waves breaking on rocks.  But we also await the smell of fresh planked Salmon plucked from the nearby inlet and the tinkling of wine glasses filled with Mendocino Pinot Noir. In August we dream of a trip to the coast of Maine and eating fresh lobster rolls from a walk-a-way stand on the wharf and talking to locals about where to have dinner. In September we contemplate returning to Santa Fe with ristras of red chilies hanging from the adobe buildings.  We recall the smell of pinion smoke and anxiously await breakfast at Tecolotes.  I’m thinking Huevos Rancheros with freshly made red and green Chili sauce 

This summer we traveled to California and had the very special privilege of joining Chef/Author Joanne Weir in her fabulous kitchen in San Francisco for a week’s culinary tour of the Mediterranean.  During the week we journeyed through the lavender fields of Provence, enjoyed Italy’s rustic charm and then to the wonderful and magical Greece and Morocco. We concluded our journey in Spain with saffron and Paella. Each day gave us the opportunity to prepare dishes that celebrate these countries’ cultures.

Joanne spent five years cooking with Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California and studied with Madeleine Kamman in New England and France and was awarded a Master Chef Diploma. She has written over a dozen wonderful cookbooks, of which we have several. And she has won a number of prestigious culinary awards, including James Beard nominations and awards. She also has her own TV show on PBS, Weir Cooking in the City.  

Neither Gayle nor I are novices around a kitchen. I grew up in my parent’s restaurant in Sonoma, California. When we signed-up for this class I was
a little concerned that it would not be “expert” enough for us to learn new skills.  I needn’t have worried. The class was filled with haute amateurs and marmitons, several whom had taken a number of classes with Chef Weir.  The week was filled with advanced cuisine and there were plenty of challenges both from the recipes and in the preparation techniques. We had eight students in the class and each day we split into four teams of two to set out and prepare our recipes.

For the day in Italy we made Chocolate Caramel Amaretto Budino.  At one time we were caramelizing sugar, melting bittersweet chocolate in a double boiler, scalding milk, roasting almonds, grinding amaretti cookies, beating eggs and boiling water. The hot caramel was poured into a cake pan; scalded milk was mixed with the chocolate, then tempered into the eggs, then mixed into the ground cookies and almonds and then poured into the cake pan. Immersed in a hot water bath the Budino was ready for the oven. Okay, break time. I’m worn out.  Thank goodness Joanne planned for a dish washer as we dirtied nearly ½ the pots and pans in her commercial kitchen. And there were three other teams also using pans, knives, mixers and small appliances.  The kitchen hummed with organized activity. 

Also in attendance were two culinary students, Elizabeth Harvey and Inken Chrisman.  Their role included keeping the culinary students safe from self inflicted burns, stabs, slices or spills. They assisted us assemble our “Mis en Place.” As explained by Chef Weir, Mise en place, pronounced [miz ?? plas], is a French phrase that means putting in place. In professional kitchens it refers to organizing and arranging the ingredients such as cuts of meat, relishes, spices, freshly chopped vegetables, and other components that a cook will require for the menu items that he or she expects to prepare. Finally, they were observant to keep our recipes flowing on time and using proper culinary techniques. After all, Chef Weir could not be everywhere in her kitchen at once.

Over the course of the week we were exposed to all types of work in a professional kitchen including various methods of cooking such as sauteeing, baking, grilling, frying, and smoking.  She lead us through making pasta, tagine, pissaladiere, galaktoboureko, the traditional steaming and seperating of couscous (for hours), and spit roasting lamb in her fireplace. This was an exciting and stimulating week for a foodie. We also participated in plating, garnishing and serving. And, most importantly, each day we had an opportunity to sample all foods that were prepared, along with the wines that accompany them.

We targeted that all our recipes would be concluded and ready about 2:30 each day. With four teams each preparing 2 recipes it was much more than a late lunch, it was an early 5 course dinner.  Local wine merchants brought wines from around the world to pair with the wonderful foods. The lunch was slow and leisurely, with lots of conversation and sipping of fine wines.  During these afternoon sessions Joanne spoke of her world travels and offered  personal insights into each region that we visited. By the end of the week we knew we had made a new friend of Joanne as well as our fellow students. And our hats off to Elizabeth and Inken, there were no injuries to students and no permanent damage to Joanne’s beautiful kitchen.

After a pleasant sufficiency of aromatic foods, unctuous wines and lively conversation, Gayle and I would don our windbreakers for the chilly hike back to our hotel. July is cold and foggy in San Franscisco, and the marine layer was especially thick for the duration of our visit. The Sherpa-like hike to our hotel each afternoon was straight up for 10 blocks. Something seems to be weighing me down, what could it be? 

And where else did we dine while in San Francisco, a city with many fabulous restaurants? After all that lunch about the most we could handle each evening was a late visit to a local eatery and a small appetizer, but more wine of course

Gayle and I feel honored to have attended this class. Chef Weir’s personality was both kind and earnest.  All in attendance agreed that the class was educational, entertaining, and a barrel of fun. Next on our agenda is to travel with Joanne Weir to a Tuscan Villa or to an Estate in Provence for an even more advanced culinary adventure. Bon Apetit!

Glory Seeds is a 501 (c )(3) not for profit farm that’s purpose is to give our community a location where people can learn about sustainability, and the health benefits of including fresh, local, organic products in their diet. In addition to education on organic gardening Glory Seeds will host classes on soap making, cheese making, canning, care of chickens and goats, grinding organic grains, bread making, and much more. You can volunteer to work in the garden and earn some produce for your efforts. One half of all the products grown and produced at Glory Seeds Farm are to benefit God’s Abundance Market and Café, a free farmer’s market and soup kitchen for those struggling financially.  

Larry and Kim are wonderful generous people.  From their studies they learned that fresh organic food is better for our health but that many people who need its nutritional benefits cannot afford its often higher cost. Glory Seeds now has over 2 acres of land under cultivation to help remedy this challenge, and three more acres stand ready when sufficient capital and labor permit.

Larry and Kim’s vision for Glory Seeds has exceeded their near term expectations thanks to the award of grants by the Department of Agriculture. These funds helped drill a well, build an irrigation system, provide crop cover and natural fertilizer. Boy Scout Troop 6 has completed a number of service projects benefiting the farm including building a ram pump, chicken house, green house and goat pen. This summer, through the Georgia Teen Work Program, 8 deserving young people worked at the farm and learned about organic farming. Now, through the Georgia funded Legacy Link program one person in our community is earning a salary while learning about organic gardening and livestock management. But there is always something else the farm needs, right now they need a large cooler to help preserve the farm’s bounty.

I walked the property with Kimberly and took photos.  Everything looks beautiful, healthy and verdant. It was a beautiful sunny day following heavy rain and the crop-cover kept everything from being muddy. Being totally organic means that bugs and disease are a constant menace. Everyone working the farm remains vigilant.  Kim said, “If you see a bug that eats vegetables smoosh it.” I smooshed a few between my fingers while walking around.  Some natural insecticides are used such as essential oils, soaps, cayenne, etc. All these techniques can be learned from books and from other organic farmers. Recently they lost a goat to a Coyote, hence the new goat pen. They said deer did not seem to be a problem maybe because there are many dogs in the neighborhood.

In the immediate future they hope to turn the old barn into a classroom in which to teach classes on sustainability, in addition to offering career building classes in alternative energy. They have received a grant from Radiance Solar and will have a solar array installed on their new pole barn. This array will fuel the entire garden and be a demonstration site for the possibilities of solar energy. They are also planning a small cooperative to make organic grains available at low cost. They have studied the teachings of Eliot Coleman on the Four Season Farm, and are using many of his principles.  The first of several Green House/High Tunnels is in the process of being set up. This will extend the growing season and allow Glory Seeds to provide produce throughout the year. Other plans include operating a farmer’s market that will take food stamps, so even more people will enjoy their healthy produce.

I asked Kimberly what their vision is over the next five years.  She said in addition to expanding the garden and extending their growing season “it is also our hope that Glory Seeds will serve as an inspirational template for others.  Maybe in five years there will be several Glory Seeds Farms around the country teaching people in need about the benefits of leading a healthier life. We are happy to share our vision and our experience.” Our community is blessed to have such a wonderful couple. All donations are tax deductible and may be sent to Glory Seeds 2528 Rickman Airfield Rd. Clayton, Ga. 30525. Please visit their website: Gloryseeds.org.

By David G. Darugh

6 ripe heirloom tomatoes(medium size)

4 tsp unsalted butter

1 ½ tbl minced shallots

2 tsp minced garlic

2 tbl arrowroot

1/3 cup Half-and-half

1 tbl dry sherry or Marsala

½ cup soft goat cheese)

2 organic eggs separated

3 tbl minced chives

2 tsp chiffonade basil or other fresh herbs

Salt to taste

Freshly-ground white pepper to taste

3 cups Steve Whiteman’s Famous Micro-Greens

¼ cup Aged Sherry Vinaigrette with EVOO

2 tbl Fresh Basil Pesto (optional)

Slice the tops off the tomatoes and carefully hollow–out by scooping out the seeds and pulp (save for another use). Sprinkle the insides with salt and invert the tomatoes on paper towels to drain at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallots and garlic and saute until soft but not brown. Add the Arrowroot and continue cooking for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring continuously. Whisk in the half-and-half and the sherry, cooking for 3 minutes longer and continuously whisking until the mixture is smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let cool slightly. Whisk in the goat cheese, egg yolks, chives, herbs, salt and pepper.
In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Stir 1/4 of the whites into the cheese mixture to lighten it. Carefully fold in the remaining whites. Spoon the souffle mixture into the tomato shells, mounding it slightly.

Place the tomatoes, with their sides touching, in a lightly-oiled baking dish. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the tops are lightly puffed and browned. Serve the hot tomatoes immediately on a bed of the mixed greens on chilled plates. Drizzle on about 1/4 cup of Sherry Vinaigrette and finish with a sprinkling or two of white pepper and Basil Oil. Optional: top each tomato with 1 tsp fresh Basil Pesto. This recipe yields 6 servings.

 We have been cooking with Taylor Farms fresh eggs for about 5 years. David Taylor is also a contractor and over the last several years he has done a number of renovations for the Beechwood Inn, but his first love is farming. His stated 3 year goal was to transition to full-time farming. His goal is now a success. 

Its exciting to see David working full-time to increase his farm’s production. I dropped by to see how his operation was progressing, and I was amazed at all the new additions. The number of raised beds has vastly increased, another long strip of land was recently levelled for even more raised beds. But the big news for 2010 was two 20 by 75 foot greenhouses. In  addition, he has barns, a sprouting shed, a small herd of pigs and a serious looking washing station for eggs and greens.

I asked David how he got into farming having grown up in Chicago. He said his fascination came as a child with family visits to his grandparents farms’ in Kansas and Iowa. He loved the smell of fresh tilled earth, corn fields on a hot summer day and even the smell of pigs in a pen beside the barn (I’m personally not sure about the pig smell).  While in college at Illinois State University he majored in art and never thought about agriculture as a career. 

After college he and wife Teresa moved to Knoxville, Tennessee, where he built timber frame and log homes. In the evening he would work on a small vegetable garden. When that company went out of business they relocated to Rabun County where he continued to work on timber frame construction. He again took up gardening but this time decided to educate himself on good farming practices by reading as much as he could. All too soon 6 chickens grew to 20, then to 50 and soon they had 200 chickens. . . 

The farm is small by global standards, only about 1½ acres, but the available land is being intensively cultivated. As we walked around everything seemed very well planned and laid out.  The new greenhouses have central overhead sprinkling systems; there are hanging pots above the beds which permit vertical use of light and space. The sprouting shed has a gas heater. The pigs have their own shed and seem quite happy – but they do smell like pigs.

The variety of things now being grown is quite large.  David has over 20 types of culinary herbs and edible flowers.  I was glad to see a number of lemon verbena plants.  David tasted some lemon verbena ice cream at Beechwood Inn last year so now he is plying this intense herb to restaurants (I want a commission on the lemon verbena sales). There is a large variety of heirloom and cherry tomatoes, but the bulk of his farming is of fresh greens.  There is every color and texture of lettuce you can imagine, arugula, spinach, endive and stinging nettles. By June David plans to be harvesting over 100 pounds of fresh greens each week. Old Edwards Inn in Highlands alone will purchase about 60 -70 pounds a week. 

At Beechwood Inn we are proud to serve Taylor Farm greens to our guests, but it does involve more work than simply buying triple washed lettuce in a plastic bag from Wal-Mart.  Someone, usually Ashley our kitchen assistant, must wash and dry the several pounds of greens we use each week. Food is needed by everyone, everywhere, every day. We believe that making shopping decisions that favor sustainable and local food sources benefits health, improves the local economy and is ecologically sound – even if it means more effort on our part.  We know these these foods taste better and we also know they are days and in many cases weeks and months fresher.

Several years ago we ran a taste test of Taylor Farm fresh free range chicken eggs versus store bought eggs. 95 percent of our guests preferred the farm fresh eggs.  The other 5 percent said they tasted too “eggy.”  I can only guess they just got used to bland eggs from chickens raised using hormones, antibiotics and fed corn-pellets.

The farming future for Taylor Farms calls for slow growth and increased efficiency, but without borrowing money.  Another greenhouse will soon be added.  He says the greenhouses can extend their growing season by perhaps two months giving them 10 months of production, and the greens are protected from drowing rains or damaging hail.  Now he wishes he had built the greenhouses years ago.

David is very generous with his farming knowledge.  I often hear of him visiting and helping other farmers build better soils or providing advice on crop management. Gosh, David, I guess you have become a consultant.  In addition, he has also become a distributor for other farms.  When he learns that someone has giant blackberries available he will harvest and sell them through his regular channels. And he learns about wild foods.  I wanted wild ramps so David located someone who goes into the mountains to gather them.

We give thanks our local farmers. When our guests taste baby lettuces and peppery arugulas that were in the ground a mere 24 hours ago, just picked berries and local melons, then they finally comprehend why we are proud of our fresh & local products. We also know that our lettuce has been grown without herbicides or pesticides and that the farmer who brought us this food is also feeding it to his family.

David Taylor’s Farm is located in Lakemont, Georgia.

by David Darugh, executive Chef, Beechwood Inn

Ena Weinstein came running to the United States in the early 1980’s. Born in Lima Peru, she was the pioneer of women’s marathon running in her country. Ena ran her first competitive marathon in 1981, an 18th-place finish in the New York City Marathon. She participated in the 1984 Olympics in Los Angeles as a member of Peru's Women's Marathon Team - she finished 25th in the Games. Her best showing was a 10th place finish at Boston in 1987. And, when she was six months pregnant she finished in fifth place in the '87 Pan Am Games at Indianapolis. Her last Olympics was in Barcelona in 1992.

Along with her dedication to training and physical fitness Ena acquired a double B.S. in Exercise Physiology and Occupational Therapy. She is still running, but now her focus is on helping individuals and families improve their health, fitness and appearance.  She believes that therapy and high performance training work hand in hand to help athletes’ perform at even higher levels.

Ena and her husband came to Rabun county over 10 years ago. It was a stopping point on their travels between Florida where Ena was working to train athletes and her husband’s business property in Pittsburg, PA. They often stopped at the Dillard House and both were attracted by the beauty and people of Rabun County. When they settled in Rabun County Ena worked as a freelance coach to young athletes.  But her vision was to open her own spa. Two years ago Mind and Body Haven was born. The first time she stopped at the rustic building which overlooks Tiger Creek she fell in love with the tranquil location. She deemed it healing.

Ena continues to work as a freelance coach for for some very disciplined young athletes around the world that compete in high performance sports. So how do you do that from Lakemont, Georgia? She pointed out that even when she was competing her coaches could not come to every event.  Now we have many more tools such as cell phones, Skype and long distance monitoring.  She uses these tools to talk to her students and manage their personal training, heart rates, calorie intake and many other aspects of training.

As you can imagine based on Ena’s experience and training Mind and Body Haven is not your ordinary spa. It offers a wonderful holistic approach to improve your health. Ena’s Dad told her “never stop learning” so now she is studying to be an Esthetician.  She points out that skin is our largest organ and we need to take better care of our skin. With this in mind she uses only organic all natural skin products.

Mind and Body Haven offers a number of personlyzed services including: facials, waxing, personal training, yoga, pilates, diet advice, stress reduction and several different types of massage including medical, Reki and Lyposage. After talking to Ena I have high confidence in her abilities.  During our time together I could clearly sense both her intensity and dedication.

The Spa is handsomely designed and outfitted.  It is located in the Center of the art village of Lakemont, Georgia. When you enter you are welcomed by a subtle aroma of sandlewood, pine and spices and you hear the gentle harmonies of nature.  One feels immediately relaxed.  The serenity and privacy make it a haven for pushing cares and responsibilities to the back burner and surrendering to a pampered hour of renewal.  The massage I received sent me to heaven. Pour me back into my street shoes Ena and I’ll return next week.

I got the works, facial, nails and a one-hour massage. The massage was a personal workout.  Not only did I feel relaxed but I also felt like I had completed a marathon myself. Giving a massage has to be a personal workout in itself so I asked Ena how many massages can she offer in a day? She said she has done as many as 8 in one day.  But she runs and bicycles daily to keep in top shape.  She also has a staff of other therapists that she has personally trained, so if you prefer a male maseusse she can oblige your preference. She has enough trained assistants that she can handle corporate retreats, bridal parties and family gatherings. She also makes house calls.

In the future she plans to gradually add more space and programs, including more health, fitness and beauty services. Oh, did I tell you she is also an actress. She had a starring role in a soap opera in Mexico. Since coming to the United States she has performed in commercials, been in a number of  small movie roles, and served as a sports commentator. And, be very careful, she has a Black Belt in Karate!  She also volunteers as a physical therapist for the U.S. Olympics Track and Field Team. In addition to all this she is a Mom.

For my birthday my husband David gave me a second session with Ena at Mind and Body Haven.  I am looking forward to taking the time away from the Beechwood Inn so I can be molded, pounded, buttered and relaxed.

Mind and Body Haven

(706) 212-0062

info@mindandbodyhaven.com 

www.mindandbodyhaven.com

By Gayle M. Darugh, Owner/Innkeeper, Beechwood Inn, Clayton Georgia - Georgia’s Premier Wine Country Inn, www.beechwoodinn.ws

Micro-greens are very tender, packed with intense flavor and filled with healthy nutrients – and contain scarsely a calorie. Researchers have found that they contain higher levels of concentrated active compounds such as antioxidants than in mature plants or seeds. Micro-greens are considered to be in the group of what are newly referred to as “functional foods” that have particular health promoting or disease preventing properties in addition to their normal nutritional values.

Micro-greens don’t have to be green.  You can find seeds that will produce edible shoots in a wide variety of colors – red, purple, white, lavender, pink, yellow as well as every shade of green you can imagine.  The flavors can vary from supremely sweet (Steve’s “corn-sickles) to bitter, tart, hot, sour, nutty and mild.  From a chef’s perspective I find them visually captivating and sublime to eat.  I refer to them as “Chef’s Confetti” and use them regularly at the Beechwood Inn as garnish, in salads, sandwiches, soups and in main courses.

Another captivating thing about Steve’s micro-greens is that he has them available year-round.  I asked Steve how do you grow and supply your mico-greens in the dead of a vicious North Georgia winter? He invited me out to his farm for a tour and to learn how they can be grown even when the temperatures are hovering in the teens.

We started with some questions about where he got his start in the farming of micro-greens.  He recalls helping his mother with her vegetable garden when he was a youngster and believes that is where he got the interest in gardening. Then, during the 1970’s he found a passion in the organic farm movement. It became a part of his spirituality. Whenever he moved the first thing he did was tear up the yard and plant vegetables.  He recalls that one house he moved to had only a small yard crowded between his and the neigbor’s house.  The site had no sun, but he persisted with his plans and planted beets.  They sprouted but would not grow further without sun, so he made a salad using the purple dicots – it was delicious and beautiful. So, that was how Steve Whiteman invented “Steve’s Famous Micro-Green Salad Mix.” That was 20 years ago, and he has been working to perfect his salad mix ever since.  

His home and farm are in Habersham County just outside Clarkesville.  The basement of his house is filled with grow boxes, grow lights and a large wood stove to keep the little micro’s happy and sprouting even on the coldest of nights.  In clearings around his house are cold frames, green houses and organic compost piles.  Viewing this operation I can conclude that Steve is a serious farmer and knows a treasure trove of information about building organic soils, and offering food and shelter to his plants.   

He has designed and built a series of green houses, each one an improvement over the last.  His most recent green house contains a Cob Stove. It is a homemade wood fired stove made from a mixture of clay, sand and straw, which is what "Cob" is.  It is designed to retain the heat from a fire built inside. On cold nights Steve will trek out to the green house at 10:00pm for its final stoking and his micro-greens stay sproutingly warm all night long.

Steve told me that his beds are 10-15% organic matter, whereas a typical conventional farm may have 1-2%. His soils are alive with micro-organisms that digest plant materials and release nutrients back into the soil.  Seed is broadcasted over a prepared bed and days later a green carpet springs forth.  The tiny greens must be protected from drowning rains, too much sun, too much dryness and hungry mammals. As the carpet grows he thins the greens making cleared rows and this permits more seeds to sprout.  Finally after several weeks he turns the soil over and starts again. All the soil is turned by hand so that the organic material remaining from the sprouts can be deeply buried under the soil, so the cycle renews.

I toured Steve’s farm in late March. First I got to taste tiny corn-sickles.  They were sprouting in covered trays in his basement. They offered an explosion of sweet corn flavor – hence the name. There were also beds of hong vit seedlings (purple radish), sunflower sprouts and red buckwheat. Outside in cold frames and in the green houses were beds of mizuna, spinach, Kings Lettuce, arugula, and micro lettuces of every color.  As the weather warms the variety of seeds that he plants will change. More colors and flavors will be added. Plus, he says some micros take on different characteristics as the weather warms or cools. Steve is always looking for new varieties of seeds to plant and add to his salad mix. His house is filled with catalogues. Many of his seeds come from Johnny’s Selected Seeds http://www.johnnyseeds.com, which offers high quality inspected seeds.

He actively started to market his micro-greens to the public and to restaurants about three years ago; before that he just grew them to eat and share with friends. In addition to the salad mix, for restaurants he will provide small packets of “Chef’s Confetti.”  Just let him know what colors and flavors you would like.  He is working on a second salad mix that will contain more lettuces and some cilantro, cutting celery and other new varieties that will make it a completely different taste and texture.

While talking to Steve I learned he has written a book Swallowing the Avocado of Enlightenment: A Spiritual Guide for the Rest of Us, Trillium Center Press 2006. Curious, I acquired a copy to peruse.  I found the book’s simple, practical approach uncommonly understandable. To me, most books of this genre make religious belief and spiritual experiences overly complex and incomprehensible. Standing above this landscape of human effort someone has finally presented a very simple and unifying concept. Nice job Steve.

After I saw and tasted Steve’s micro-greens for the first time I was heard to mutter “where have you been all my life?”  These micros have become an important part of our fine dining experience at the Beechwood Inn.  Steve is trying to grow his business, so if you would like to try some really wonderful and nutritious micro-greens you can reach him at stevewhiteman@windstream.net or at (706) 754-9478.

 David  Darugh is co-owner of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant that features fresh and local products.  David was the General Counsel of the American Wine Society from 1990 to 2001. 

I was told by a friend that Clayton was getting a new French Bistro and that it would be located at the Old Clayton Inn. Being a dedicated foodie, and very much a Francophile I exclaimed “What, a French Bistro in Clayton? Who, when; where do I find out more?”

In our small community it took only a few hours of sleuthing around to learn that “Dominique” was the one in charge. I set out to learn more about Dominique and his venture. When Dominique Chambon stopped by the Beechwood Inn to chat with us I immediately recalled him as the Sommelier at Waterfall Country Club. He is an impeccable man with a wonderful French accent. When I told him I was writing articles about chefs in the North Georgia Mountains his first comment to me was “I am not a chef, just a passable French cook.” Possibly he downplays his talents.

Dominique was born in Paris. His father was in the restaurant and hospitality business all his life. His father also spent 10 years as the butler to the then wealthiest man in the world.  In that position his father was in charge of all hospitality, food, entertaining, and service. The young Dominique was always at his father’s side and learned much about hospitality, service, and importantly food service.  He eventually followed in his father’s footsteps and learned much more while working in France.

He immigrated to New Orleans to work for the famous Cajun/French Chef Pierre Lacoste at his upscale hotel/restaurant Maison Pierre.  During the sojourn in New Orleans Dominique was in charge of the “front of the house.”  This encompasses all aspects of food and wine service, décor, business management and the training of wait staff. He was later recruited to come to Atlanta and work as the Maitre d’ at the new Riviera in Buckhead. Its ambience is that of a French cottage, and eighty percent of the servers were French.  Dominique stayed long enough to become Riviera’s general manager and sommelier.  While he loved the kitchen and continued to cook for fun, his primary responsibilities for the places he worked was to manage the front of the house and ensure friendly and efficient service. 

A friend owned Renee’s Restaurant in Dahlonega, and Dominique was ready for a new challenge. He left Atlanta to work at Renee’s.  But the notion of having his own Bistro soon got the better of him and 6 months later he opened 51 Main Street Bistro in Dahlonega.  After a period of operations he sold the Bistro and returned to France for 2 years; but by then the North Georgia Mountains had smitten him and called for his return.  He came back to Dahlonega and opened Dominique’s Bartini and French Cafe, the first martini bar in North Georgia. Bartini’s served a menu of cocktails and French Bistro foods.  Located on Grove Street it had a wonderful Bistro atmosphere that set itself apart from other restaurants.

When he sold Bartini’s he was recruited to come to Rabun County to work the bar and provide wine service at Waterfall Country Club. It did not take him long, however, to decide that Rabun County is a great place to live and work, so once more his thoughts drifted to operating his own French Bistro.

This brings us up to the present and my curiosity was now fully piqued.  Dominique said he has the same crew that did his renovations in Dahlonega providing the renovations at the Old Clayton Inn restaurant, dining room and patio.  He indicated, they are now getting pretty experienced at creating the ambience I am looking for. Dominique said “I want to create something upscale, but not expensive.  I want simple good food, nothing really fancy. I want guests to feel they have truly stepped off the street and into an authentic French Bistro. There should be tasteful art and décor, perhaps the patio will have some flags and banners.” 

I talked to Dominique about possible menu items and he indicated he would like to offer some French staples such as escargot, onion soup, duck salad, foie gras, seafood gratin and rabbit.  He will have a wine bar and plans to offer cheese plates to go with fine wines. And, of course, some will be some great French wines. And finally live music; perhaps mellow jazz.

He said the important part will be selecting some great people to work at the Bistro.  Having many years experience managing the front of the house, he is confident he can find, recruit and train the right people that will enhance each diner’s Bistro experience. He reiterated that he can only be as good as the people that work for him.

 “So when do you open” I asked with great anticipation on several different levels?  He said he plans a soft opening about mid-April, but all depends on construction and staffing. “Success is imperative; I won’t open until everything is ready.  This is my last restaurant. I want to do a great job and go out on top of my game.”

 Slow down Dominique, I don’t want to hear you talking about going out on top; I have not even dined at your Bistro yet.  Look for the Bistro on South Main Street to open about April 15^th.  Gayle and I plan to be there along with some of fellow Bistro-Trekkies, so better reserve your table soon.  Gayle, I can’t decide between the Boeuf Bourguignon the Seafood Gratin or the Coquilles Saint-Jacques; what are you going to have?

 David  Darugh is co-owner of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant that features fresh and local products.  David was the General Counsel of the American Wine Society from 1990 to 2001. 

Brigadoon is a place that is idyllic, unaffected by time, and distant from our world of tension and stress. Crane Creek Vineyards fits this definition perfectly. Gayle and I have traveled the world in quest of food and wine and few locales feel as cozy and comfortable as Crane Creek Vineyards.

Owners Eric and Deanne Seifarth have assembled a “family” of employees and constructed a small “village” of operations at the very northern boundary of Georgia in the Shadow of Brasstown Bald. With an infectious smile, Eric told us “wine is second; the experience for our visitors is the first priority. Making wine is just the controlled spoilage of grape juice.”  We can certainly attest that Crane Creek has assembled a wonderful crew of helpers. They ensure that every guest gets greeted immediately; people are not left to feel anonymous. They instantly make you feel like part of the extended Crane Creek family.

What pleases us about visiting Crane Creek Vineyards is that it has old world European charm. It remains rustic and outdoorsy, yet comfortable and inviting.  The tasting room is a restored vintage farm house with beautiful old wood floors. It is surrounded by wood decks and porches that overlook the vineyard and its large pond. There are many different gardens, nooks and benches where visitors can take a bottle of wine, some cheese and bread and have their own intimate picnic. And visitors are encouraged to do so.  Not that we don’t like the large stone and mahogany California-esc wineries near Dahlonega – they are gorgeous.  But Gayle and I are both drawn to Crane Creek because of the reuse of the old farmhouse, barns and outbuildings.  New construction retains the theme of the old farm, which suits this location perfectly.

The winery and vineyards have grown since our last visit.  Crane Creek is now on its third extension to the winery building.  Soon they will have more room for storing cases of bottled wine.    Additional bathrooms have been added to the pavilion to facilitate larger events.  Eric indicated they have many weddings, bridesmaid lunches and rehearsal dinners scheduled as the weather warms.

The vineyard encompasses 15 acres of grapes, and this includes a few leased acres nearby. In addition, Eric purchases some grapes from area farmers.  Altogether Crane Creek now produces about 3400 cases of wine in what is likely the coolest zone for grape growing in Georgia. The vineyard looks south toward Brasstown Bald. With these growing conditions in mind Eric concentrates his effort on grapes that thrive in cool climates.  Spring is chilly with unpredictable freezes, but the Georgia Mountains are blessed with long warm summers and cool nights.  Current grapes planted include Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc that need lots of micro-management in the vineyard; easier are Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc, Chardonnel, Villard Noir, Traminette, Norton and Chambourcin.  From these grape varieties Eric renders 13 different wines that are available to taste and purchase.

We have always been a big fan of Eric’s style of winemaking.  As a chef, I prefer my white wines to have good acidity, a certain steeliness that comes from minerality with little or no oaking.  They are just easier to pair with food.  And, at Crane Creek you can find plenty of white wines made in this style. Eric’s red wines are medium to light bodied and also pair well with food.  The Norton Eric poured us during our visit may well be one of the best and most restrained I have ever tasted. It just won a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition in California. Our hats go off for Eric’s ability to tame this indigenous and unruly American grape.

Eric has more vineyards to plant. In the near future he plans to add several more cold hardy varieties.  These include Austrian native Gruner Veltliner (dubbed Gru-Vee) which makes a lovely tart white wine that we see little of in this country because the Austrians drink most of it.  Another Austrian grape he plans to add is Lemberger.  This is a red skinned grape that offers a coat of many colors for wine lovers.  It can be dark and brooding or it can be light and quaffable. And finally, Eric would like to experiment with some plantings of Petite Sirah, a very thick skinned grape with tight bunches that I normally associate with much warmer locations of California.

Well I love the vineyard and I adore the old world charm, but do you know what excites me the most? Along Crane Creek where grapes don’t’ do especially well Eric constructed a culinary garden. The bounty of produce from the garden’s daily harvest is transformed into of-the-moment, wine-friendly creations by resident Chef David Sanford.

The garden features antique specimens and heirloom cultivars, all grown with 100% organic farming principles. Each month, throughout the growing season, new and delicious offerings from the gardens find their way into dinners at the vineyard. The vineyard family also tends a small flock of free range chickens and Guinea hens that provide a steady supply of farm fresh eggs. Finally, there is a small apple orchard that features a wide variety of old heirloom and antique North Georgia apple varieties, some being quite rare. Each fall the apples are transformed into pies, cider, and other delicious offerings for vineyard visitors. In mid-summer, don’t miss their “Tomato Festival.”

Eric and Chef Sanford have opened Crane Creek Café which offers Prixe Fixe seasonal dinners on Fridays, and “stimulus package” Soup Kitchen Saturdays. Once a month Chef Sanford offers farmer’s Pasta Dinners. The dining room is an inviting patio under the sky adjacent to the vineyard with views of the mountains. I love Al Fresco dining.

If you are feeling stressed out, and need some time away in a relaxing pastoral setting, Crane Creek also offers a guest cottage in the vineyard. If you plan ahead Chef Sanford can even offer a wonderful meal for you. Well Toto, how close can you get to Napa-Sonoma and still be in Georgia?  Pack your bag, Gayle, we’re getting away from the Beechwood Inn for a couple of days.

Crane Creek Vineyard: 916 Crane Creek Road, Young Harris, GA 30582; (706) 379-1236. www.cranecreekvineyards.com

At the traffic light in Young Harris, GA go north on GA 66 3.3 miles then left on Crane Creek Road .7 mile.

Editor's Note: David and Gayle Darugh own and operate Beechwood Inn in Clayton, GA. It is considered Georgia's premier wine country inn and is a member of the prestigious Select Registry. It also has been named a winner of Wine Spectator's Award of Excellence. (706) 782-5485.

I love to visit and eat at chef operated restaurants.  I can count on getting the most inspired andauthentic food and service. This month I took a short trip to Hiawassee and met Chef Michael Collins at Michaelee’s Chocolate Caffe. The Caffe features fresh Mediterranean style dining with a definite Italian bent.  During this visit I sat down with Chef Collins to learn more about what brought him to North Georgia. Chef Collins said he came to Georgia for a short visit nearly 29 years ago and never left.

 His interest in food started as a child. He grew up in Bridgeport Connecticut, an area with many ethnic families, so he was exposed to many types of food – and his favorite was Italian. He was the youngest of 6 children, and spent much of his early years hanging-out in the kitchen with his mother and older sisters.  By the time he went to high school, he selected a technical school that offered an exploratory culinary program.  That experience solidified his interest in food. 

While in school he worked for an upscale kosher catering firm and learned many new recipes and how to do ice carving.  From high school he was accepted at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park New York. Upon completing culinary school he took a short trip to Georgia to visit one of his sisters. He fell in love with the area and has been here ever since.

His first job was at a TGI Fridays in Atlanta’s Buckhead area.  After several years he was selected to help create and develop new menu items and recipes for the chain. Not long later he was recruited by Innovative Restaurant Concepts in Atlanta.  They owned a number of large restaurants including Ray’s on the River and they were developing a new brand named Rio Bravo Cantinas. Chef Collins worked as a kitchen manager but quickly worked up to become the company’s Commissary General Manager.  He moved further up the corporate ladder to serve as area and regional manager. Before leaving the company he was responsible for 7 restaurants each with multi-million dollar revenues.

The corporate food world is all about numbers, and while he had huge responsibility, he was no longer a chef.  He left the company in 2000, thinking it would be a short sabbatical.  At this time his wife, Lisa, was running an international adoption agency, so he joined her firm and was able to travel the world.  This lasted for 4 years, but then he got the itch to get back to his first love, the kitchen.

With Lisa by his side their first private venture was “A Touch of Class,” a gourmet cooking shop in Helen.  He demonstrated how to use prepared sauces and other products and turn them into unique and creative meals. The shop enjoyed success, so they opened a second one in Hiawassee. A developer friend mentioned that he was preparing to construct a row of new store fronts in Hiawassee and he invited Chef Collins and Lisa to think about a new shop. After much thought they decided on a small coffee shop, a limited menu with a few baked goods. Michaelee’s Chocolate Caffe was the result, offering full lunch and dinner menus 6 days a week as well as baked goods, chocolates, gourmet products, and a selection of beers and wine.

I asked Chef Collins does he regret opening their own “full service” restaurant.  He said “absolutely not.  I enjoy it, I love it, and hands down it is better than the corporate world.” He and Lisa chose to raise their daughter in a small town. All three of them love the mountains and its people.  They now have a loyal following.  Many of their regulars come from Murphy, Blairsville, Helen and Clayton to enjoy the Caffee’s wonderful foods and exquisite service.  He said Lisa has full charge of the front of the house. She hires staff, ensures prompt courteous service, and selects the wine and beer. She visits every table to ensure each diner is satisfied.  

Chef Collins’ brings a wealth of knowledge and experience to our mountains. He personally prepares almost every item available at the Caffe, including lunch sandwiches, entrees, desserts, baked goods and their wonderful fudge. I asked, okay “what’s behind the name Michaelee’s?  He explained that it is actually a contraction of their two names.  Lisa is known as Lee by their family.

The restaurant is adorable.  It has hardwood floors, huge windows looking out at the mountains and a cheerful outdoor seasonal veranda. 

Chef Collins’ dinner menu is extensive and includes such homemade creations as Jumbo Florentine Raviolis, Steak Au Poivre and Veal Saltimbocca. Lisa’s effort to ensure beautiful table service and wonderful presentation will make you forget you are not in a big city.  While I am partial to Chef Collins Italian selections, Gayle is a serious fan of his several decadent chocolate creations sitting in the dessert case. Okay, Chef Collins, maybe we need a Michaelee’s Chocolate Caffe in Clayton so I don’t have to drive as far.

Michaelee's Chocolate Caffe, 142 N. Main Street, Hiawassee, GA 30546, Phone (706) 896-2752 Cafe@Michaelees.com, www.michaelees.com

David  Darugh is co-owner of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant that features fresh and local products.  David was the General Counsel of the American Wine Society from 1990 to 2001. 

Submitted by chuck on Wed, 05/13/2009 - 06:00

Here's a little bit about our amazing getaway to the Beechwood Inn in Clayton, Ga back at the beginning of April. Thank you David and Gayle for providing everything we needed as we recharged and explored Rabun. Salut!

Beechwood Inn's Website

From Beechwood Inn

We arrived Saturday afternoon and got settled in our room. It was upstairs with a great view of Blackrock Mtn, a queen bed and fireplace and a nice little porch to enjoy.

Dinner Sat night was exquisite. We began the evening on the front porch of the Inn where we enjoyed a light shrimp appetizer paired with a Pinot Grigio. We moved inside and received the next course which was herb and vegetable beggar's purses paired with a Rubiro Montepulciano. Next we had a locally grown green salad with asparagus and fresh tomatoes. We took a break for a palette cleansing red wine and raspberry sorbet. The main course was a chicken breast topped with the best back I've ever eaten (http://bentonhams.com). We finished the evening with a chocolate and caramel macadamia torte prepared by Gayle and a nice tawny port. Excellent, excellent, excellent!

Sunday we did some hiking at Tallulah Gorge and later discovered some things about Sundays in small town Georgia. Basically, everything is closed except for the Mexican restaurant and the only place to get adult beverages was back at the Inn. So, we had some dinner and headed back...

Monday we were going to tour some of the local N.Georgia wineries, but learned another lesson about winter hours in N.Georgia. Luckily for us, David agreed to do a wine tasting for us that evening during Wine-Thirty. We were the only guests that evening and had a intimate and educational walk through Chardonnay and all the complexity therein. I was reminded what a novice I am in the wine department.

Tuesday we got some early spring excitement and were greeted with snow. We planned to drive up to Highlands, NC that day and didn't let the flurries stop us. We had a lot of fun being touristy and accidentally had lunch at the most expensive place in Highlands. That night we enjoyed getting to meet Lorrie and Glen during Wine-Thirty where we shared a special bottle of Barolo that we had been saving. We were going to eat our leftovers that night, but after hearing about the place that David recommended to Glen we decided to go there too. We beat them there and the four of us had a fun dinner then say up drinking more wine til the wee hours. Salut to Lorrie and Glen!

Sadly, we had to pack up and leave on Wed. We stopped at the Spring Ridge creamery on the way back to Chattanooga and bought some of the best ice cream you can get. We also picked up some cheeses for home.

All in all, we had a great time. We are so glad we found you Beechwood Inn. We'll be back!

-chuck and callie

Chucks Blog

One more vineyard and winery has joined the growing list of North Georgia producers of fine table wine.  Real Estate investor Hue Rainey and wife Jane have planted grapes, built a new winery and tasting room, all in the historic village of Sautee.

Hue Rainey has been a longtime fixture of the North Georgia Mountains, having owned a bed and breakfast inn, motel, been in construction and is currently President of the Helen Chamber of Commerce.  After selling off some of the investment properties and retiring from the inn-keeping business, Hue started casting about for something else interesting to be involved in. One day his daughter called him while touring Napa California and suggested he get in the vineyard and winery business. A seed was planted.

Hue and Jane did not make this leap without some serious study and constructing a business plan. They visited a number of North Georgia wineries seeking advice on equipment, grape varieties, trellising and farming.  Three Sisters co-owner Doug Paul proved instrumental in offering advice on uncomplicated trellising for grapes and sizing his operation and investment. In addition, Steve Gibson of Habersham Winery, and former President of Wine America, allowed as how nearly 90% of all wineries from New York to California are Mom and Pop operations, and many are very successful in their niche. Finally, in order to get an additional perspective the Rainey’s toured the growing Missouri wine country and studied several small operations that offered a good model for their vision.

After much study the two concluded there was room in North Georgia for a small family run winery making carefully handcrafted wines. The Rainey’s already owned about 8 lovely acres of land that looked optimum for a vineyard, so no new land purchase would be necessary.  The family also owned a former veterinary office in Sautee that they refurbished into a beautiful tasting room offering a spectacular view of part of the vineyards. An old barn located on nearby land has been remodeled into the winery operation. The first vines were planted in April of 2009 to Cabernet Sauvignon. The tasting room was opened on Halloween 2009. In 2010 they expect to produce about 1,000 cases of wine. The winery currently has a capacity of about 3,000 gallons. While Hue and Jane are insistent that their operation will remain small and focused on quality wines, Hue also has a vision of building an amphitheater near the winery that will facilitate live music in the vineyard and offer a venue for weddings and special events.

Currently the Sautee Nacoochee Vineyards offers 7 wines.  We tasted through the wines and would characterize each wine as exceptionally well made and each perfectly reflects the soils and micro-climates of north Georgia. I was especially pleased with the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, which had medium body, nice round tannins and a lovely blueberry and blackberry bouquet.  Another favorite was the White Merlot, which was very crisp, barely off-dry and smelled of fresh strawberries.

I asked Hue about the wonderful deer logo on their tasting room.  Hue indicated that his farm was part of historic hunting lands of the Cherokee and Creek.  He and Jane believed that the winery and vineyard’s image should pay homage to the earth and its rich Native American history. Hue quipped “sipping our wines is like slipping into your favorite pair of jeans and enjoying the sunset with someone you love.  We want everyone who comes into our tasting room to feel like part of our family.” After our visit we sure felt like we had made new friends. Congratulations to Hue and Jane, you are off to a great start. 

 Sautee Nacoochee Vineyards

98 Nacoochee Way (Just off Highway 17)

Sautee Nacoochee, Georgia 30571

(706) 878-1056

http://www.sauteenacoocheevineyards.com

What an exciting interview I had with Chef Yati Lang of Yati’s International Bistro in Franklin, Georgia.  Chef Yati is a native of Indonesia, and has traveled the world in her quest of new and interesting foods and recipes.

 When I arrived at the Bistro I met her husband Dr. Bert Lang, who talked to me about Chef Yati’s background.  She grew up on the island of Sumatra.  Her name, Yati, means “sunshine.” Her family name was Tala, which means brook or stream.  Her culinary inspiration comes from her mother who was from Amsterdam and from her Indonesian grandmother. As a young girl the two would take her into the rainforest to forage for herbs and wild foods. Together they shared with her European and Indonesian recipes using foraged ingredients.  With this wonderful heritage, Yati chose to major in restaurant management at the University of Singapore. 

Her first job was with the American Embassy – but not as a chef.  Next, she moved to the United States and worked for the Indonesian Consulate General in Houston, Texas. After several patient years she finally got her first opportunity as a chef in the United States with a Bennigan’s Restaurant in Houston.  Over the next 10 years she worked at a number of restaurants and traveled the world seeking new and unique foods, herbs and recipes.

In 1996 the Lang’s moved to Asheville, NC, where Dr. Lang worked to establish a new dental program.  They later moved to Silva, and expanded the dental practice to include Franklin. Year’s before, however, Dr. Lang promised Yati that one day he would help her establish her own restaurant. That finally happened in 2008 when together with her sons James, Allen and husband Bert they opened Yati’s International Bistro just south of Franklin, NC on Highway 441.

After getting this background information from her husband, Yati and younger son, James, arrived at the Bistro. The whole room lit up with her vivacious personality.  Chef Yati was genuinely excited about my visit and she spoke effusively about food and cooking.  It is her therapy, her passion and takes her to another world.  She passionately talked about food as her form of art and creativity, just like paint on a canvas. Cooking is also her embodiment of personal freedom. In Indonesia food is tied to politics, religion and history and there are very specific boundaries.  Here she is free to cook what she wants, as long as it is delicious and beautiful.

I was nearly as excited as Chef Yati.  I have talked to and interviewed too many chefs that look at cooking as an occupation, and in most cases it shows.  The Chefs that have passion, at least the ones that I have met (e.g. Michael Touhey, Craig Deihl, Sean Brock, Louis Osteen) make my taste buds tingle with anticipation, and then jump for joy with satisfaction.

But most of all what Chef Yati enjoys is people eating her food and loving it.  With that she tugged me into her kitchen.  While my camera and I snapped photos she and her son started grabbing pots and pans, fresh Ahi tuna, seaweed, Wasabi, red cabbage and several homemade sauces.  Within minutes they presented to me seared tuna salad that was a perfect fusion of Pacific rim cuisines. I was politely ushered to a beautiful table setting to sample the nearly instant preparation.  I would say my wow factor was off the scale.  This was some of the most exciting seared Tuna I have experienced, and very handsomely presented. And even better, Dr. Lang opened a bottle of Conundrum (how did he know this is one of my favorite wines, has he been spying on my Blog?).

But, the food did not stop there.  Soon arriving at my table was a bowl of homemade venison Chile.  The flavors were one standard deviation away from the comfort food we know as Chile and beans. Chef Yati’s version included the expected dose of southwest Chile powder, but it was taken to the next level with the inclusion of wild venison, lean ground ham, heirloom beans, Asian Chiles and a drizzle of sugarless chocolate.  It was garnished with fresh cilantro and crisp coconut ribbons. It was un-expectedly superb. Gayle will be sorry she missed this interview.

The Bistro is simple, intimate yet elegant. Dinner guests will enjoy fine linens. The open stainless steel kitchen is compact, immaculate and permits diners to view Chef Yati and her family as they prepare your meal.

Chef Yati’s inventive menu reflects a passion for fresh regional and organic ingredients of the highest quality.  You will see a number of familiar foods but with a creative twist (her Chile and beans) and a number of unique foods artfully cooked and presented.  Her style of cooking reflects the many places she has visited in her world travels, while paying homage to her mother and grandmother’s traditions.  Based on my visit, I would characterize Yati’s International Bistro as a high level culinary destination for people with an inquisitive pallet.  When you visit you will receive warm friendly service, an elegant fine dining experience and some wonderful international cuisine. As a committed foodie I am placing Yati’s on my list places to visit on a regular basis.  And, more importantly, after only one visit I claim Chef Yati as my friend.  What a warm creative woman with a very supportive wonderful family.  

Yati’s International Bistro

2726 Georgia Road (Highway 441 just South of Franklin)

Franklin, NC 28734-7335

Get Directions

(828) 349-9284

http://www.yatisbistro.com

Lunch: Thursday - Sunday 11:30 AM - 2:30PM 

Dinner: Thursday - Sunday 5:00PM - 9:00PM 

David  Darugh is co-owner of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant that features fresh and local products.  David was the General Counsel of the American Wine Society from 1990 to 2001. 

All active and retired members of the U.S. Military, Guard and Reserves are eligible to receive a 10% discount on their lodging for leisure travel.  This offer is subject to availability and the eligible member must occupy the room. Please ask for this discount at the time you make your reservation as that is when we create an invoice for your stay and calculate your deposit.  Also, please have your military identification available at check-in. This discount may not be combined with other discounts and is not applicable to Special Packages, Holidays and Events (e.g. New Year’s Package, Valentine’s Package).

Tucker moved his approving eye around the dusty wine cellar. Emma had just reproached him one more time to clean it up, at least just a little. They had just returned from Europe, their first vaca­tion since his retirement. While there they purchased a small quantity of local Burgundies not available in the United States and some Bordeaux’s. Tucker enjoyed the romance of France and the challenge of air freighting it through cus­toms and Georgia’s Beverage Control.  Anyway, likely as not the air freight company will successfully steer it right to his doorstep in Rabun County without mishap.

Now, where to put it? It would start arriving in the next few days. Certainly the Bordeaux would go in the far corner with the rest of the Bordeaux’s . . . the Magnum of Pétrus was gone! Surely not. His eyes quickly surveyed the familiar dusty bins and shelves. He and Emma had built the cellar more years ago than he cared to remember, with the help of a local stonemason. It was passive and cool. Although he did have occasional mold growth, especially now in the early spring when the dampness crept in.  It was an effective cellar. The Pétrus, however, was definitely gone. But where?

Its vintage was the same year Tucker and Emma wed and would be drunk on their 50th wedding anniversary, no sooner. He looked forward to the uncorking of the bottle and sharing it with close friends. He had often thought out loud that maybe 40 years of marriage would be celebration enough. But Emma merely smiled and said, “You’re not planning on leaving me before our 50th, are you Tucker?”

 But it was gone now. And so were several other cases of fine wines. He need not look at his inventory. He knew almost every bottle by heart, and there were indeed many to remember. The cellar and a small vineyard he maintained on their property were the only lavishments that he allowed himself.  Tucker made some excellent wine from his Georgia grapes. He thought of the cellar as his, although Emma also enjoyed fine wines and dining. The collection had started modestly over 30 years ago, and continued to grow.

Tucker checked the cellar against his mental inventory and discovered that at least ten cases of fine Bordeaux from exceptional years, several cases of old Burgundy, and a marvelous vertical collection Mondavi Reserve Cabernets were gone, in addition to the Magnum. Whoever did this picked some of his best wines.

He quickly climbed the stairs to tell Emma that the house had been burglarized in their absence. Together they quickly checked their valuables, jewelry, cameras, stereo, silver — all present and accounted for. No signs of forced entry anywhere. A call to the security company dis­closed no record of an alarm during their absence.

The police department would not in­vestigate because there was no evidence of forced entry. While apologetic, the deputy indicated they were not staffed to investigate every mysterious disappearance. A mystery it was. Tucker and Emma scoured their home for any clue. Tucker called their insurance company, which dispatched an adjuster. He made a polite but cursory walk-through, and ventured that without evidence of forced entry he doubted if a claim would be paid. “Could you have drunk the wine and just forgotten?” Right, thought Tucker we downed a Magnum of 30-year-old Pétrus and then forgot.

     The security installer appeared several days after Tucker’s call. “Never wired a wine cellar before;” he said. “Must be pretty valuable stuff, huh? Do you drink all this wine yourselves?” The newly installed all-seeing plastic motion detector protruded from an inconspicuous corner, but its blinking red eye detracted from the old world ambiance of the stone, brass and wood. It appeared to work, though. After the installer left, Tucker played with the all-seeing eye. He moved ever so slowly into the cellar at various angles testing the plastic sensor. Wherever Tucker moved it eventually sensed his presence and winked its scorn.

    Tucker observed an unusual bloom of mustard-colored mold creeping up the legs of his grapevine table. Emma always found the best gifts. This one was from a 100 year old Zinfandel grapevine.  It had been carefully sawn off and shellacked and it was topped with a thick sheet of nicely beveled glass. All visitors to Tucker’s cellar oohed and ah’d when they saw it. Tucker momentarily puzzled over the yellow color of this new mildew. He had his collection of antique cork pulls displayed on the tabletop. He picked up and caressed one of his favorites, an aged grapevine carefully polished and fitted with a metal corkscrew.  Darn, it has that yellow mildew eating its way right through the varnish. He thought to himself, perhaps a little diluted bleach and a sponging down wouldn’t hurt. It would placate Emma.

      Weeks passed, but neither Tucker nor Emma lost the sense of having been violated. Someone had been in their home, at least in the cellar. But that meant elsewhere, as well. The cellar had but one entrance and that was from the main floor. Tucker sat in the study absently dozing while trying to read the latest Rabun Laurel. His eyelids drooped again. Emma was out, and the inactivity of retirement was quickly becoming tire­some. Maybe another trip was in order. Something caught Tucker’s eye as he started to drift into sleep. Not move­ment, but something. He opened his eyes and surveyed the study. No move­ment, yet something had definitely caught his eye. A reflection maybe? There it was again. He froze his head and stared in its direction. The security panel! The security panel light blinked a scarlet eye. Again it blinked. Someone was in the house with him. Tucker’s heart raced and cold sweat welled under his arms. He stared again at the panel and once more it blinked.  Zone 12 - the wine cellar. Someone was moving in his wine cellar! How could that be? The only entrance was the stairwell in the foyer. The only way there was across the path now separating Tucker from the security panel.

     Tucker nervously walked to his desk, opened the file drawer and removed his old revolver. Should he call the police? Could be a false alarm and how embarrassed he would be. Several times during his business travels of years past Emma had called the police, only to find a failed switch or some other non-emergency. They were always polite, but Tucker knew they had more important things to do than to respond to false alarms. The cellar had the new motion detector, so probably it was an electrical defect. Armed as he was, he would just make sure.

Tucker crept quietly down the stairs. The wine cellar took up about half the basement. Tucker stopped in front of the Gothic door Emma had designed for the cellar. The stonemason had done a marvelous job of setting the stone around the doorway. The door was closed, but not locked. Tucker moved close to the door and listened. Nothing. Still nothing. Tucker relaxed a bit; perhaps it was just a false alarm. His hand was already tired from gripping the revolver. He tightened quickly when he heard the clink of wine bottles. It was an unmistakable clink. Cold perspiration dripped inside his shirt and beaded on his forehead, despite the coolness of the cellar. He dried the hand holding the gun on his pant leg and thought of what to do next. Should he yank the door open, or slowly inch it open? The antique wrought iron hinges would squeak like banshees so he would need to act quickly.

Without allowing more time to talk himself out of his foolishness, Tucker jerked the door open, rushed in and caught the intruder with an armload of wine bottles. “Freeze, or I will shoot you dead!” The intruder was bent over a bin. He dropped the load in a loud crash and clank, startling both of them. He was a wiry young man clad in a metallic jump suit, like Mylar.

“Raise your hands and then freeze; I do not wish to kill a wine thief, but I don’t aim to be your victim either, so just freeze.” Slowly the thief turned to face Tucker. He was dark, handsome, slight of build, but looked quick and athletic.

Dangerous, thought Tucker. His luminous cloak had a soft hood pushed back. The garment extended toe to neck and reflected the soft electric candle glow of the brass sconces on three of the walls. Tucker could not identify the color; it seemed to reflect all colors. Most unusual. About his neck, ankles and waist were metal collars arrayed with softly glowing lights. He looked somewhat wild-eyed. His attire was curious. No intruder would likely dress in such a gaudy costume. Especially the glowing collars. Very curious indeed.

“Don’t move a muscle; now tell me what you are about.” Silence. “Okay, you can talk to the police. Move yourself slowly across the room and up the stairs. I will shoot to maim the first time, but I suggest you not give me need to take such action?” Nothing. No acquiescence. No refusal.

“Do you understand? I said move!” The man made no indication that he had even heard Tucker’s order. But, he must have. He was certainly observing Tucker’s order to freeze and raise his hands. Obviously he was assessing his situation too. Tucker now really started to worry. What had he gotten himself into? Perhaps he should have just called the police.

“Do you understand? If you don’t start moving I will shoot you in the foot to disable you and go call the police. So make up your mind.” Tucker took aim at a foot.

“Do not shoot me,” said the intruder in an accented voice, “I must drop my hands to my belt, and then I will do as you wish.” Tucker boomed, “If you drop your hands I shoot, so start walking slowly to the stairs. Just what are you doing with my wine? I assume you are the one who stole from me before!”

“I know you will not understand. But you must not turn me over to the authorities as it will be a violation of our traveler protocols and will have reper­cussions beyond imagination?” Tucker thought, what kind of tale is this fool going to lay on me? “Okay, try me!”

“I am a voyager from your future,” he said with apparent reluc­tance. “Sure,” said Tucker with wry amusement, “stealing wine and making a bundle in wine auctions, right?” “Well sir it is a little more compli­cated than that.  I am a specu­lator of sorts.” “If that’s the case, how come we aren’t overrun with you time voyagers plundering wine cellars and baseball trading card collections. Just start moving to the stairs real careful-like.” “I cannot be discovered, if I were, it would inalterably change the past, uh, I mean your future. Ever since time travel has been technologically proven, it has been banned. The technology is closely guarded and the few devices that were assembled and demonstrated are now museum pieces. I just happen to be a technician in the classified museum where many sensitive and dangerous things like this are protected. I was merely curious and greedy about wine. You see it’s all gone now . . . I mean now where I come from.”

Tucker was drawn into the explana­tion. “You’re not really from the future are you? Just when are you from? What do you mean all wine is gone? What happened?” The intruder explained “there was a grapevine plague over two centuries ago. I have heard several theories. Perhaps space travel brought back a new virus or disease. Many discount that theory because it struck earth and decimated all grapevines before interplanetary travel commenced in earnest, and it apparently started in a small and obscure wine growing region far from spaceports. We had several unfortunate experiences with the intro­duction of interplanetary exotics, so now everything is carefully quarantined. Perhaps it was a mutation of an earth virus or some other vector. It acted like a mold but attacked the woody parts of grapevines and turned them to dust. Anyway, it spread quickly around the world and killed every variety of grapevine. Nothing escaped. After several decades they were all dead. In the museum in which I work we have samples of this wine plague. Someday our scientists hope to unlock its virulence – but we have no living vines to replant. Scientists and horticulturists have labored over developing alternate winemaking species. Chemists even make artificial wine. But nothing compares to the wine from real grapes. The few remaining bottles of wine, secreted in private collections command astronomi­cal prices, and for wines the experts say are merely shadows of what they once were. I just figured that I could make a small fortune by collecting wine from the past and bringing it back to the present along with some cuttings from your vineyard.”

“Well, how in the world did you settle on my cellar you thief-from-another-time? And what am I supposed to do now, just turn you loose, so you can go steal from another cellar or in another eon somewhere? If this time travel is so dangerous, just what do you think you have already wrought by being here now?”

A door opened upstairs. “Tucker, is that you downstairs?” “I’m in the cellar Emma, and I need your help!” With surprising speed and deftness the intruder swept his leg across Tucker’s gun-wielding wrist, smashing it with considerable force. The gun skidded across the cellar and under some shelves. The intruder pulled the hood over his head, retreated to a far corner and waived his hands over the array of lights glowing on his waist collar. The room filled with a static charge. Tucker’s hair and loose-fitting clothing were drawn, then repelled, by the charge. White light flashed shadows on the walls. As quickly as the charge had come, it faded into a dim blue glow, and the intruder was gone. All that lingered was the smell of ozone, as after a lightening strike. Tucker trembled. He was covered with cold sweat.

‘Tucker, are you all right? You’re not sick, are you?” Tucker could see the concern in Emma’s eyes. What to say? Should he confess the whole incident? It had happened, hadn’t it?

“I’m fine Emma. I just got over­extended from moving wine boxes.”

“Well you had better be more care­ful. We may no longer have that large bottle of Pétrus to share on our 50th, but be assured you had better be there, or I will be very displeased. Also, you must do something about this mildew. It really does smell odd down here.”

Tucker looked at his grapevine table. It was now covered with the unusual mustard-colored dust. Just then there was the clink of metal hitting glass. Together their eyes followed the move­ment of a metal corkscrew, absent its handle, as it rolled across the glass tabletop and plunked down hard on the stone floor.  It had fallen out of the old Burgundian grapevine branch that was part of Tucker’s collection of antique cork pulls. The vine that had held the metal screw was now a pile of mustard-colored dust and rotten wood.  Emma swept the dusty debris into a dust pan and threw it out the back door into Tucker’s small vineyard.

Glen Ella Springs Inn and Meeting Place has always been one of my favorite respites in the north Georgia Mountains.  To arrive at Glen Ella Springs Inn is to step back in time to a slower pace of life.  Take a stroll through their perennial gardens or just relax in a rocking chair overlooking their pasture.  But first, make sure you turn off your cell phone and leave your laptop behind. 

Once you arrive at Glen Ella Springs be sure to make time to dine in the century old wood paneled dining room and enjoy their wonderful regional cuisine.  Magazines and food critics have awarded Glen Ella Springs Inn many compliments and distinctions, including: 

• 2004 Silver Spoon Award by Georgia Trend Magazine
• Voted one of the top ten dining destinations in Georgia
• Food Writer John T. Edge, Author of Fodor’s Compass Guide to Georgia said, “Probably the best white tablecloth restaurant in the mountains can be found at Glen Ella.”

 Two years ago new owners Luci and Ed Kivett took the helm at Glen Ella, and immediately committed themselves to offering the highest quality hospitality and service, and have worked to make sure the inn’s long reputation for memorable fine dining continues.  To that end, they recently announced the hiring of Patrick Hodge as Executive Chef. 

Luci Kivett shared with me that after an extensive regional search they discovered Chef Hodge to be among the foremost of rising chefs in Georgia today.  He has an impeccable record of accomplishment at several well-known caterers and restaurants, contagious energy, expertise in the culinary arts, and a passion for seeking out the finest in ingredients for use in Glen Ella’s regional American cuisine.  With Chef Hodge on board Glen Ella is poised to become one of the most distinctive restaurants in North Georgia.     

With all this build-up, I was excited to meet and talk to Chef Hodge.  He is a young looking 26 years old but has already accumulated 10 years of culinary experience.  He was raised in Rock Hill, NC where his first culinary experiences were working along side his mother.  After high school, he was motivated to work in the restaurant business and become a chef.  He moved to Columbia, South Carolina where he worked for 4 years at the California Chicken Grill, while holding a number of chef and front of the house positions.  At the conclusion of his stint with the grill, he had risen to the position of general manager and had gained significant experience in both kitchen skills as well in restaurant management. 

Next Chef Hodge moved to Athens with his girl friend, Katrina Carroll, who enrolled in veterinarian school at the University of Georgia.  Chef Hodge first worked at Hallie Jane catering in Madison, GA under Chef Brett Clark quickly became his mentor.  After a year of working together, Chef Clark encouraged Hodge to seek formal culinary training. Based on this advice he enrolled in the Cordon Bleu Institute in Atlanta.  While commuting to school each day he worked evenings as a chef at Copper Creek Brewing Company in Athens.  This proved to be a very difficult time in his career.  He attended morning and early afternoon classes in Atlanta and then had long nights at the restaurant.  About ½ way through he wondered if he could complete the program.  However, he said he got strong encouragement from both Katrina and Chef Clark. 

After graduating from Cordon Bleu, he once again worked with Chef Clark at Center Stage Catering for about 15 months.  It was about this time that he saw the chef advertisement for Glen Ella Springs on Cordon Bleu’s “hot jobs” list.  After a series of interviews, Glen Ella now has a new Executive Chef. 

Both he and Katrina love the north Georgia Mountains.  She accompanied him on his first in-person interview and encouraged him to accept the position at Glen Ella when it was offered.  This is his first executive chef position and he is thrilled with the challenge and appreciative of the Kivetts’ confidence in his talents and skills. 

Both he and the Kivetts agree that extensive changes in the menu are not likely to occur any time soon because many of the dining “regulars” expect consistency.  Where Chef Hodge will be free to experiment with his talents and creativity is in offering daily specials.  Some of the specials he has offered to date include Pan Seared Ahi Tuna with Ponzu Sauce and Goat Cheese and Pistachio Crusted Wahoo.  Chef Hodge will continue to tap into local farmers for seasonal, fresh produce and meats embracing the "farm to table" concept that has become Glen Ella’s hallmark.  "I'm very much looking forward to seeing what Georgia’s Mountain farmers and local markets have to offer, and creating seasonal menus that honor and pay tribute to the farmers who have grown these products," he said. 

When cooking for himself and Katrina he said his favorite foods include beef and Cajun-style spicy foods.  His favorite cookbook to experiment with is “Savoring Mexico.”  I asked if he had any seriously funny or embarrassing moments in the kitchen.  He said one afternoon he was making a Habanera Pepper Extract in a pressure cooker and he forgot to take the vent off.  The brew exploded and nailed him with hot boiling Habanera extract.  While not seriously scalded the extract itself burned every body part it contacted.  In addition, of course, he had to clean-up the kitchen, which only added to the embarrassment.  But, he added, “one learns valuable experience from events like this.” 

Based on what we have tasted from Chef Hodge so far it looks like Glen Ella can only improve upon it’s already wonderful dining experience.  We look forward to the subtle menu changes that will occur as Chef Hodge gains more experience and confidence. We heartily congratulate the Kivetts on their approach to honoring Glen Ella’s rich tradition while also embracing change where it can offer significant improvements to each guest’s experience.

David  Darugh is co-owner of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant that features fresh and local products.  David was the General Counsel of the American Wine Society from 1990 to 2001. 

Gayle and I go out to lunch frequently.  It has become almost a daily ritual in order to get out of the Beechwood Inn just for a small change in scenery.  Invariably, the first place that comes to mind is “Fromage.”  While we try to make the rounds of local restaurants, we would have to say we are Fromage “regulars.”  Excuse me folks, but you are sitting at our favorite table.  What attracts us to Fromage is that Chef Jenny Wilson’s philosophy on cooking matches our style, which is to use the best ingredients available, avoid pre-prepared and packaged foods, and make everything from scratch.  So, yes, Chef Wilson is at least partly responsible for our slow but steady increase in girth.

 Jenny Wilson has been in Clayton about 5 years, but she did not come here as a chef.  Rather, she sold clothing at the Tanner store that was on Main Street.  That is where she met Linda Webb, her business partner in Fromage.  While at Tanner they became fast friends.  They often got together with their husbands, and Jenny would end up cooking an exquisite meal.  Well it turns out that Jenny is a classically trained chef.  She graduated from the Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts in 1996 and later worked at a series of restaurants.

 About two years ago, the company closed the Tanner store in Clayton leaving its employees searching for new occupations.  Jenny and Linda talked about what the future would offer and decided that they would open a restaurant.  At about that same time Inger’s Fine Foods closed and the building and equipment became available – so they formed a business partnership and made the jump.

 Chef Wilson acquired her interest in cooking largely from a neighbor who had emigrated from Hungary.  During and after high school she was often found at the neighbor’s house cooking and eating. She took that interest in cooking and eating and enrolled in culinary school.  After graduation, her first cooking job was in Colonial Williamsburg at Josiah Chownings Tavern as a grill chef.  The tavern specializes in barbecue and other Colonial fare.  It is also known for evening entertainment, including balladeers, colonial games and other 18th-century diversions.  She left Chownings and moved to Anastasia’s, which at the time was a well-known restaurant in Williamsburg, to work for their wonderful chef.  In two years, the chef moved on and Chef Wilson took over as head chef.  However, after another change in jobs and some disappointing kitchen experiences she decided to change occupations.

At the time, her mother was working for Tanner clothing, so Chef Wilson joined Tanner and started selling clothing.  Tanner moved her 5 times before she settled in Clayton.  That is all history now, and Fromage is a great success.  Chef Wilson is a creative dynamo in the kitchen, often spending long hours prepping and cooking.  Fromage offers wonderful lunch fare, catering to go, artisan cheeses, and fine dining once a month featuring foods prepared from scratch.  While Gayle and I have not been able to attend her dinner offerings, (on weekends we are always working in the Beechwood kitchen) we hear great praise from our guests.

Together Chef Wilson and Linda are very involved in our community.  You will often see the two of them, along with their husbands, donating time, effort and food for charitable and civic events.  At the present time, Chef Wilson is the President of the Clayton Merchants Association.  She and Linda were the primary instigators of this summer’s very successful “Clayton Crawl.”  This downtown Clayton evening event was attended by over 500 people and offered live music, samples of local award winning wines and tastes of foods prepared by some of the areas best restaurants. 

Fromage also participated in this year’s Rhapsody in Rabun and served Vermont goat cheese, pistachios, grape truffles, and herbed phyllo purses stuffed with French brie and salmon lox.  They were also participants in the Mountain Lakes Antique Show and the Grow Cook Eat Mountain Harvest Celebration.  Chef Wilson is already working to improve and enlarge next year’s Clayton Crawl.

I asked what her favorite ingredient is and without a split second’s hesitation, she replied heavy cream.  Her favorite tool is the cheese knife, hence the name Fromage.  And when considering where to go for a vacation or a trip, the destination will always involve food.

Fromage has quickly become an extended family operation.  Chef Wilson’s mother has planted herbs and flowers around the restaurant.  They all got together and dug up a part of the lot next door and planted flowers, tomatoes and herbs. Her sister came to town to help staff the Fromage tent at the Clayton, Crawl.  Husbands Mr. Wilson and Jody Webb can often be spotted in the Fromage trademark colorful aprons helping serve or clear tables. 

Yes, Chef Wilson loves food and she loves what she does.  We are certainly glad she has settled in Rabun County and is cooking up a storm at Fromage.

Up-and-Coming Chefs in the North Georgia Mountains by David G. Darugh[1]  

The North Georgia mountains have been known for moonshine, agriculture, traditional values and a broad spectrum of geologic and cultural riches. These assets remain, but their impact is changing as visitors are now associating the North Georgia Mountains with beautiful new wineries, fabulous dining, luxury resorts and the abundance of wonderful fresh and local products.  Of course, you can still find a mason jar of good ‘shine if you know who to ask. 

This perspective has not been lost on Georgia’s grape-growers.  One of the first to appreciate and understand the association of wine and culinary tourism was Eric Seifarth, founder of Crane Creek Vineyards near Young Harris, Georgia, just a stone’s throw from North Carolina.  Owner Eric Seifarth has a spectacular pastoral setting with a view of Brasstown Bald, Georgia’s highest peak.

On our visit to Crane Creek Vineyards we met and talked to Chef David Sanford who is excited about working at the vineyard.  I love to talk to chefs with a passion, and I could sense that David had found his calling in the north Georgia Mountains.

David is not classically trained in culinary arts. He started his career in marketing, and traveled the world on business and was exposed to many wonderful cuisines. He heard the calling and joined a catering company in Atlanta known as “Rich Bits.” While starting only part-time, over the course of the next 15 years he left his white collar job and became a full-time partner in the catering firm.  He served as a private chef and did many large private events.  One evening a catering event brought him to Crane Creek Vineyards.  Eric Seifarth was so pleased with the dinner that he started hiring David for more and more events.  Finally, David sold his interest in the catering firm and took up residence at Crane Creek Vineyards.  He lives on-site in a small farm house, and is studying viticulture, winemaking and hospitality management and could not be more thrilled.

David is committed to using as many fresh and local sources as possible. This includes local beef from “Holy Cow,” local produce and dairy.  According to David the perfect complement to Crane Creek's vineyards and winery is their culinary garden. The Garden features antique specimens and heirloom cultivars, all grown with 100% organic farming principles. Each month, throughout the growing season, new and delicious offerings from the gardens find their way to the dinner tables. In addition, there is a small apple orchard providing a wide variety of heirloom and antique North Georgia apple varieties, some of them being quite rare. Each fall this bounty of apples is transformed into pies, cider, and other tasty offerings for vineyard guests. Finally, David adds, “our small flock of free range chickens and Guinea hens, supply a steady supply of farm fresh eggs, and round out our sideline agricultural activities.”

Eric and David have started Crane Creek Café which offers Prixe Fixe seasonal dinners on Fridays, and “stimulus package” Soup Kitchen Saturdays. Once a month David offers farmer’s Pasta Dinners.  Crane Creek also hosts weddings, receptions and offers private dinners for large or small groups. Their dining room is an inviting patio under the sky adjacent to the vineyard with views of the pond and the mountains. I love Al Fresco dining.

Now home in the North Georgia Mountains, he has found his bliss.  He said that restaurant business is one of the most lethal operations to be in, so he and Eric Seifarth are growing their food service slowly and cautiously but with a goal of opening a full service restaurant.  So - if your senses are craving dining under the stars with a walk through the vineyard we’ll meet at Crane Creek Vineyards.

By David and Gayle Darugh[1]

The North Georgia mountains have been known for moonshine, agriculture, traditional values and a broad spectrum of geologic and cultural riches. These assets remain, but their impact is changing as visitors are now associating the North Georgia Mountains with beautiful new wineries, fabulous dining, luxury resorts and the abundance of wonderful fresh and local products.  Of course, you can still find a mason jar of good ‘shine if you know who to ask.  

Just this year owners of many North Georgia vineyards, farms, orchards, mills, herbalists, dairies and restaurants founded the Georgia Mountains Foodways Alliance[2], dedicated to preserving the heritage of our mountain foodways and to promoting fresh and local products.  This Alliance encompasses a field to table spectrum from agriculture to fine dining, with emphasis on all the specialty foods, farm markets, and hands-on restaurants in between that are so dear to the hearts of southerners who love homegrown/homemade local food.

 The notion of using fresh and local ingredients is not new to the Georgia mountain people who have planted gardens and orchards, raised farm animals and foraged or hunted in the wild to supplement what they might purchase at the market.[3]  However, the unique development is the birth and growth of North Georgia’s Wine Highway.  While the first modern Georgia wineries started back in the 1980’s, in the past decade many new vineyards have been planted and wineries built dedicated to making fine table wines from Georgia grown grapes.   

Viticulture and winemaking have steadily gained importance in Georgia’s agri-economy.  North Georgia is currently host to more than a dozen wineries, and the rate of new vineyard plantings is amongst the highest in the Eastern U.S. Production is now about 115,000 gallons annually.[4] In 2001, Georgia’s legislature recognized the significance of the industry and authorized the designation of roadways and signage to create the Georgia Wine Highway.  This designation and more recent legislation permitting Georgia wineries to ship wine will encourage increased planting and production. 

Along with the development of wineries is an explosion of wine and culinary tourism in the North Georgia Mountains – in particular there is a growing interest in fresh and local products.  Fruits and vegetables grown thousands of miles away are harvested long before peak ripeness so they can survive shipping and be market ready weeks later.  Local products are fresher, have better flavor and more nutrient benefit, offer more seasonal variety, lessen the environmental impact of transportation and packaging, and keep more money in local economies.  

Although we are both Southerners, our parent’s employment took us to Northern California in our youth, well before Napa and Sonoma became synonymous with food and wine.  We observed the growth of California wineries during the 1970’s, but what really contributed to the development of culinary and wine tourism was the location of fine dining venues in Napa and Sonoma Valleys, along with the birth of California Cuisine.[5]  When John Ash & Company, The French Laundry, Auberge du Soleil and others built fabulous restaurants (and lodging) they quickly developed loyal followings – and that is when tourism exploded.  With over 5 million visitors annually, Napa is California’s second most visited tourist destination after Disneyland. 

Together we have traveled the world in pursuit of food and wine destinations.  Some of our most romantic memories include wine dinners and wine tastings in a winery hosted by the winemaker.  Few experiences, at least for the wine enthusiast, can be better than sitting next to red stained wine barrels, breathing in the smell of wine-soaked oak, dining on the best of fresh and local cuisine, while the winemaker offers secrets on how she coaxed her grapes into offering their very best.  Once you have experienced this personal treatment you will understand what makes Napa more attractive to the tourist than Disneyland- at least for many adults. 

A new survey reveals that the emerging phenomenon of culinary tourism-defined as travel to learn about or enjoy unique and memorable eating-and-drinking experiences-is taking hold in the American vocabulary.  One-quarter of all leisure travelers say food is central to their destination selection, and that number increases to 51 percent for culinary travelers (those engaging in culinary activities during leisure trips).  Deliberate culinary travelers also indicated that culinary or wine-related activities were either a key reason to take the trip or helped them choose between destinations.  According to the survey, two in five (40 percent) of leisure travelers self-identify as traveling to learn about or enjoy unique and memorable eating-and-drinking experiences.[6]   

The study demonstrates that a sizable proportion of the U.S. leisure market does indeed make travel decisions based on a desire for wine and culinary experiences.  In fact, it confirms that wine and culinary experiences are a driver of destination choice. 

This perspective has not been lost on Georgia’s grape-growers.  One of the first to appreciate and understand the association of wine and culinary tourism was Karl Boegner, founder of Wolf Mountain Vineyards near Dahlonega.  Karl opened the winery in 2002 and operates it with his wife Linda and son Brannon and daughter in law Ashley.  Karl is an old hand in the tourist, food and accommodation industry.  He was in charge of food service for the opening of Disney World in 1971.  He was also the Executive Vice President for Chateau Elan Winery from 1985-1989.  He and Linda owned and operated the Founder's Club in Roswell, GA a high quality events venue.    

Wolf Mountain was built as a destination for the wine and culinary savvy.  Karl spared no expense to create of a wonderful ambience in the lodge, tasting room, patios, and winery.  The lodge sits at the top of the mountain and enjoys a spectacular view with southern aspect for his 8 acres of grapes, which include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mouvedre and Touriga.  Wolf Mountain makes some of Georgia’s best and most highly rated wines. 

In the winery, tasting room and barrel room, the architecture is a modern rendering of traditional craftsman style.  Karl has collected a stunning array of wine antiques that add an historic European flavor to the cellar ambience.  The floors and walls could easily be mistaken for a timeworn castle’s wine cave.  Wolf Mountain specializes in hosting weddings and banquets in the gardens and patios.  In addition, the Boegners offer themed wine dinners, live music, tours and tastings to the public.  Karl is a proponent of fresh and local products and is a supporter of the Georgia Foodways Alliance.  Karl has proven success in the delivery of fine food service has quickly made Wolf Mountain a popular and successful wine and culinary destination.   

Not far away is another beautiful winery destination, Frogtown Cellars.  Owned and operated by Craig and Cydney Krietzer, this three level California-style gravity flow winery was designed to accommodate receptions, weddings and large events.  The facility is a timber-frame structure with cathedral ceilings, hand-carved Tennessee flag-stone walls and Brazilian cherry floors.  Two large decks and a wrap-around porch envelop the structure with breath-taking views of the mountains and their vineyards. 

Frogtown makes award winning Georgia wines from 15 varieties of grapes planted on 32 acres of well-tended vineyards.  Craig is passionate about farming and making wine, and he is certainly one of Georgia’s most knowledgeable growers.  He and Cydney knew that the combination of food and wine in the development of winery events is a powerful determinate for the traveling public.  The winery facility includes a well-designed commercial kitchen and they now offer events on-site to experience food and wine.  Frogtown hosts regular multi-course winemaker dinners and receptions where guests can talk to the winemaker.  You can even plan your own Al Fresco dinner in the vineyard with live guitar or violin music.   

The newest winery destination in Georgia is Montaluce, a Napa-Tuscan themed winery and residential estate development near Dahlonega.  Its commitment to food and wine tourism and to fresh and local is certainly the most ambitious so far.  The estate includes the brand new 9500 square foot Tuscan themed winery, Le Vigne Ristorante, estate home-sites and, finally, Montaluce claims to offer a Napa-Tuscan lifestyle for its residents and for visitors right here in the North Georgia Mountains. 

To ensure culinary success Montaluce hired Steve Hewins as Executive Chef.   After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), Chef Hewins landed a job in San Francisco at the renowned Stars Restaurant, working under Jeremiah Tower (see fn 5) where he spent his four most formative years.   

Chef Hewins has a passion for fresh seasonal ingredients and a commitment to sustainable produce.  Le Vigne Ristorante's recipes reflect the Italian proverb of "eating by the calendar.”  Organic vegetables, fruits, and herbs are either estate-grown or handpicked by the restaurant's forager from local farms and ranches.  Chef Hewins oversees the planting of organic vegetable and herb gardens on the Montaluce estate with the guidance of a full-time master gardener.  

Finally, Montaluce says it offers a Napa-Tuscan lifestyle for its residents and visitors.  It will offer wine and culinary festivals throughout the year including wine seminars with guest speakers, visiting winemakers and its own winemaker.  Chef Hewins and visiting chefs will host culinary classes in their state of the art demonstration kitchen. There will be art exhibits with some of the finest artists and galleries in the south and visitors will have the opportunity to meet the artist, sample fine wines, and enjoy the finest in gourmet dining.  Finally, Montaluce will host Artists and Farmers Markets.  Reminiscent of the age-old street markets throughout Tuscany, the weekend artists and farmers markets will feature the area’s finest arts, crafts, and organic produce.

 Wolf Mountain Vineyards and Frogtown Cellars are wonderful examples of wineries built to be wine and culinary destinations from the outset.  Montaluce goes another step and offers its visitors and residents a Napa-Tuscan “fresh and local” immersion and lifestyle.  All three are exciting venues offering culinary, wine and lifestyle events that will encourage visitors to make the North Georgia Mountains a destination choice.

 In addition to these mega-venues, North Georgia has smaller wineries that, while they did not initially invest in large event facilities or commercial restaurant kitchens, are nonetheless devoted to culinary, wine and lifestyle tourism.  Tiger Mountain Vineyards in Rabun County, nestles at the foot of its namesake mountain.  Co-owned by two couples the winery itself is located on the fifth generation family estate of Dr. John Ezzard.  John and wife Martha farm about 10 acres of grapes, including Norton, Tannat, Viognier, Malbec, Mouvedre, Cabernet Franc, Touriga and Petite Menseng.  Co-owners Bill and Leckie Stack farm about 5 acres of grapes nearby including: Norton, Malbec, Viognier and Cabernet Franc.

 At Tiger Mountain Winery almost everything is done by hand – farming and winemaking.  Martha Ezzard, journalist and author, showed us the different varieties of young trees, each one selected and planted by their young grandchildren.  She and John want to give them a love of the land and a personal investment in it.  John is a farmer at heart and spends as much time as possible in the vineyard. 

Over at the Stack property, Leckie, a life-long gardener, has extended her skills to manage the vineyard as Bill spends weekdays at his law practice in Atlanta.  She is a devotee of the fresh and local movement and is a co-founder of the Georgia Mountains Foodways Alliance.  The Stack’s farm is a tribute to Rabun County’s fresh and local mountain heritage as it includes a 100 year-old apple orchard, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, persimmons, and Asian pears to name but a few.  Her yard is a wonderful wild jumble of perennials, wild flowers, lilies, flowering bushes and indigenous mountain plants.  Something is always in bloom.

 Both families agree they do not plan to plant many more grapes.  They want to keep the acreage of vineyards at a manageable level, as their objective is to provide the highest quality hand-made wines from less commonly known grapes that prosper in north Georgia (e.g. Tannat, Malbec and Touriga).  We think they have found a wonderful niche.

 The owners provide plenty of wine events and culinary celebrations for their visitors and for the local community.  In May they annually hold an “Awakening of the Vines” Festival with wonderful food and live music that may include the 100 piece Atlanta Chamber Orchestra set up in the vineyard.  The vines are serenaded by classical, show tunes, jazz, and of course, “I heard it Through the Grapevine.”  Late each summer they celebrate harvest with a stylish picnic, wine tasting and live music.  Visitors can help harvest grapes and may even participate in a grape stomp.  This spring Tiger Mountain Vineyards added a “Fiddle and Author Festival” to raise funds for Forest Watch.  The winery offers more casual celebrations to commemorate the release of new wines and vintages.  In addition, romantic Al Fresco picnicking and dining is available in the vineyard.  One will always find a large assortment of local artisan cheeses and many other seasonal products from local farms and gardens.  All of these wonderful products taste better with a glass of one of Tiger Mountains Vineyards award winning wines.

 Crane Creek Vineyards in nearby Young Harris, owned by Eric and DeAnne Siefarth, is another wonderful small family owned operation that offers visitors a variety of events and festivals throughout the year, all of which include fresh and local products.  Spring includes an artfest, in summer a tomato festival, in fall a harvest festival with hay-rides for the kids.  The tasting room is located in a restored 1880 farmhouse that also contains a quaint guesthouse for visitors.  Eric and DeAnne host monthly wine dinners featuring Crane Creek wines, often with live music.  The setting is the tasting room in a beautiful garden location with expansive patios with a view of the vineyards, ponds and the mountains beyond.  The resident Crane Creek Chef is a supporter of the Georgia Mountain Foodways Alliance.  Eric also sells grapes to amateur winemakers and conducts home winemaking and pruning seminars.  The tasting room has many local products including art and amateur wine making supplies.      

Blackstock Vineyards, owned by David Harris, with 40 Acres under cultivation, qualifies as the largest Vinifera vineyard in Georgia.  David is a graduate of the oenology and viticulture programs at Fresno State, in California.  He started his winemaking career as an assistant winemaker at Biltmore Estate in North Carolina.  His reputation and interests eventually led him to become the winemaker at the successful Habersham Winery in Helen, Georgia.  Ten years ago, he “semi” retired from winemaking to concentrate on the development of his own vineyard near Dahlonega, GA.  At this beautiful mountain estate he works in the vineyard daily, giving personal care to his 24,000 vines.

Last year David completed construction of a new winery and tasting room on the highest location on his vineyard.  The tasting room opens onto a large covered porch with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains.  Blackstock frequently uses the porch for wine, food and music events.  Visitors can also rent this area for their own private event.

One of the most gorgeous vineyards in the eastern United States is Persimmon Creek Vineyards located in Rabun County.  Set in a secluded valley encircled by high mountain peaks, trout flit through  Persimmon Creek as it meanders through the vineyards.  Sonny and Mary Ann Hardman searched for two years to find the vineyard site.  Currently there are 15 acres under cultivation planted to Seyval Blanc, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  Laid out with a painterly eye, the couple studied the undulations of the land and selected the planting areas for not only the specific conditions required of each grape variety, but also so the rows follow the land in a way that leads the eye to absorb exquisite natural contours and textures.  The couple has three young sons and find that working with them in the vineyard is a way to pass on a love of the earth and knowledge of the basic rhythms of the ecosystem. 

Mary Ann Hardman is the marketing maven, flying and driving around the state to resorts and fine restaurants to offer tastes of Persimmon Creek wines to wine directors, sommeliers and chefs.  She emphasizes the fresh and local aspect of Georgia wines – and reminds them that wine is a farm product.  To a growing number of restaurants and resorts that brag about serving local Georgia products the point is not lost

The Hardmans are nearing completion of three farm cottages on land overlooking the vineyards.  These cottages will provide an escape and haven for visitors seeking the peaceful solitude of Persimmon Valley.  In addition, until they build a new winery, they have moved their tasting room to a building they refurbished in downtown Clayton.  “Persimmon on the Square” offers wine tastings, and it has a number of high quality fresh and local products and upscale gifts made or designed by Georgia artists.

 We asked Mary Ann about her culinary philosophy and the phrase “what grows together goes together” and “farmers are our local heroes” rolled quickly from her lips.  She is definitely a strong proponent of fresh and local.  Their oldest son, Mitchell (age 14), has plowed up much of what is not planted to grapes and is growing wildflowers, silver queen corn, heirloom pumpkins, tomatoes, and vegetables. 

 Persimmon Creek offers a number of scheduled dinners throughout the year featuring well-known regional chefs that are proponents of fresh and local products.  They also offer private luncheons and dinners either in the winery, on their terrace or Al Fresco in the vineyard.  Sonny and Mary Ann will make sure you have the perfect Persimmon Creek wines to match your meal. 

 If you are looking for wonderful culinary and wine experiences, seek beautiful romantic scenery, want to relax and enjoy our mountain hospitality, and to sample the abundance of our fresh and local foods and wines then the Georgia Wine Highway should be your destination of choice.  The North Georgia Mountains are truly an exciting place to live or to visit.

[1] David and Gayle Darugh are owners of the Beechwood Inn, located in Clayton, GA. www.beechwoodinn.ws.  The inn includes a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence Restaurant.  They taught Wine Appreciation classes at the University of Tennessee during the 1980’s.  Gayle is a former National President of the American Wine Society and David was the General Counsel from 1990 to 2000.  Gayle is co-founder of the Georgia Mountains Foodways Alliance.

[2] http://www.georgiafoodways.org

[3] Rabun County resident Patricia Kyritsi Howell, author of “Medicinal Plants of the Southern Appalachians,” is the South’s foremost expert on native medicinal plants.  She operates Botanologos an herb school that specializes in teaching about Southern Appalachian medicinal herbs and their therapeutic uses.  Ms. Howell is also co-founder of the Georgia Mountains Foodways Alliance.  http://www.botanologos.com. 

 [4] The Oxford Companion to the Wines of North America, Bruce Cass, Oxford University Press, 2000.

[5] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_cuisine: Alice Waters, of the restaurant Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, is credited with originating California cuisine and retains the reputation of offering the ultimate California cuisine experience. Her cuisine emphasizes the freshest ingredients in season and procured solely from local farms.  Jeremiah Tower worked for Alice Waters at Chez Panisse and then opened his own restaurant, Stars, in San Francisco.  Tower, who held a degree in architecture from Harvard, was the first to implement  the "stacked presentation.”  The success of Stars restaurant helped the hype of California Cuisine as "what the stars eat.”   

[6] The URL for this study is:http://www.travelindustrywire.com/article26325.html

Georgia Wine Trail Haven

By Jennifer Whitford Stoddard*©

We have known David and Gayle Darugh, long time AWS members, for 7 years, ever since Gayle founded the Garden City Chapter of the American Wine Society in Augusta, Georgia. Last year we received the following fairy tale notifying us that they had acquired The Beechwood Inn, a 1920’s Lodge-style bed and breakfast inn located in the North Georgia Mountains . . .

Once upon a time, when Gayle McClain was 6 years old her first grade teacher asked what she wanted to be when she grew up.  Gayle answered that she wanted to be a gracious and gentle hostess in a wonderful and beautiful cottage surrounded by lush gardens filled with wildflowers, herbs and gentle birds. There would be views of mountains, valleys, forests and waterfalls.  Her guests would sleep on fine scented linens and be surrounded by rare art and handsome antiques.  The dining would be exquisite.  Fine meals would be served on beautiful china in a garden-room filled with flowers and gentle breezes.  Her guests would all be charming and filled with wonder, manners and grace.  She also wished for world peace.

 About 12 months later when little David Darugh was 6 years old, his first grade teacher asked what he wanted to be when he grew up.  Little David said he wanted to be a champion racquetball player, an accomplished white water kayaker and balding.  He also wanted a Yellow Labrador that could catch Frisbees and a job that gave him 6 months of vacation each year.  During the 6-month long vacation he would travel the world in search of fine wines and wonderful cuisine's that he could bring back to share with his family and friends.  He said he wanted the best wine, gastronomy, hospitality, and culture from exotic places, and that all of this would be tax deductible.  Little David also wished for world peace.

It now appears that both Gayle and David’s wishes for their grown-up future have been granted – with the exception of the world peace thing.  You are invited to the Beechwood Inn . . . a luxury bed and breakfast in the North Georgia Mountains.

 My husband, Jeff, and I have now had several opportunities to visit the Beechwood Inn and explore the newly designated Georgia Wine Trail.  The trail crosses northern Georgia from east to west and the Beechwood Inn is located in Clayton at the very northeast corner of the Trail.  The Inn has quickly become our favorite respite. 

The Beechwood Inn is a very special place – in large part because of the wonderful ambience and hospitality provided by David and Gayle.  The inn is not just a nice place to visit...you WILL want to live there. The southern states are blessed with many fine bed & breakfast inns that don’t elicit this same reaction. You may be awed by their antique appointments, lacey coverlets and elaborate breakfast spreads, but you also feel as if one wrong, clumsy move could destroy an heirloom and draw the scornful looks of your hosts for the remainder of your stay. At the Beechwood Inn you will instantly feel as if you're staying with family. The Inn is historic yet not fragile.  It is filled with wonderful period antiques, but it does not feel formal or stiff.  It is altogether homey and comfortable.

The Beechwood Inn was built in 1916-1922 as a summer home for the Buckholz family of Atlanta. It provided a welcome mountain respite from heat and humidity.  Known for her wonderful hospitality, Mrs. Buckholz added room after room in order to accommodate  a growing list of family and friends who came to stay. Today the fully restored lodge-style inn offers the traditions of the past with the conveniences of a modern luxury inn. While the original heart pine floors and plaster walls reflect its 1920’s lodge charm, it has all new plumbing, wiring, and rich Williamsburg-style painted woodwork, antiques and fine reproductions.  Giant stone fireplaces in the public rooms add an air of yesteryear.  On chilly mornings Jeff and I enjoy sipping freshly ground piping hot coffee in front of a warm fire and smelling breakfast aromas coming from the nearby kitchen.   

 The inn sits near the top of Beechwood Hill overlooking Clayton and the Mountains of Tiger, Georgia.  Guests are greeted by an enormous wrap-around porch offering tree top views of nearby Black Rock Mountain, one of Georgia’s highest peaks.  Comfortable chaises beckon guests to slow down and relax with a glass of wine and enjoy the spectacular view.  Acres of gardens and green-space surround the Inn, providing habitat for wildflowers, herbs, birds and other wildlife.  The gardens include thousands of daffodils, orange daylilies and purple wild-iris that bloom in the spring and early summer. A ten-minute walk will take you to Clayton’s historic main street with antique and craft shops, art galleries, and several fine restaurants.

The inn features flawless décor that is comfortable and usable. Each spacious guestroom has a private bath, ceiling fan and air conditioning. Our room had a fireplace, private balcony with spectacular view, dressing area, a queen size bed with luxurious 300-count linens and a warm down comforter for the cool mountain evenings that ensured a restorative night's sleep.  Every corner in the Inn is spotlessly clean and filled with eye catching and captivating features.

Despite all the wonderful features, the best thing about the Beechwood Inn is the hospitality of David and Gayle.  To Jeff and I they have quickly become Uncle David and Aunt Gayle (no relation, they just adopted us - and we them). They are both evocative of the old story about the difference between 19th-century British Prime Ministers William Gladstone and Benjamin Disraeli. It was said that, when you had dinner with Gladstone, you left feeling he was the wittiest, most brilliant, most charming person on earth. But when you had dinner with Disraeli, you left feeling that you were the wittiest, most brilliant, most charming person on earth. David is witty, generous and a gifted chef, while  Gayle is charming, engaging and filled with grace.  Together they provide a level of service, warmth and hospitality that is second to none.  They will entertain and charm you with wine, fine food and engaging conversation.

Dave and Gayle’s breakfast creations are beautiful to view and scrumptious. For a romantic weekend visit request David's heart shaped waffles dusted with powdered sugar and drizzled with homemade blueberry syrup, made fresh from the Inn’s own berry patch.  Jeff’s favorite is Gayle’s thick-sliced homemade cinnamon bread made into French toast, covered in real maple syrup and Crème Fresh. Each breakfast also includes a fresh fruit course, homemade muffins (I love Gayle’s nutmeg muffins!) or David’s tender biscuits, juice, fresh brewed coffees and herb teas. 

The Beechwood Inn is perfectly situated for experiencing a wide variety of activities. A favorite of cycling, hiking and whitewater enthusiasts, the Inn is equally convenient for the pursuit of history, antiques, art, folklore, or those seeking the perfect wine from the many wineries flourishing on the newly established Georgia Wine Trail. When you've satisfied your thirst for adventure, retire to the Beechwood for an afternoon snack, a glass of wine, a good book and the sweeping views of the southern Blue Ridge Mountains.  But, if you want a truly wonderful experience, you need to coax David into providing you a wine and gourmet cuisine experience from the Beechwood kitchen.

David and Gayle have each trained in Dijon, France; Sonoma, California and in Santa Fe, New Mexico.  To help celebrate the return from our honeymoon David and Gayle treated us to the following wine dinner: a warm-up sample of Tiger Mountain Winery 2000 Viognier disguised in a brown paper bag (we guessed it was from Santa Barbara, California); Appetizer of Tort de Pesto, a rich blend of cream cheese, Olorosa Sherry, fresh basil and fresh garlic on crustini paired with Ken Wright 1995 Canary Vineyard Pinto Noir (Oregon); Salad en Verte, an exotic green salad of Bibb lettuce, field greens, edible flowers and aged balsamic vinaigrette; Shrimp Piccata, an entrée of pan seared fresh jumbo shrimp with whole roasted garlic cloves, grated Pecorino Regiano fresh basil, roasted red peppers, lemon wine sauce and capers, served over fresh angel hair pasta paired with a 1997 Puligny Montrache and a 1997 Rombaur Reserve Chardonnay; and finally Gayle's Stilton Cheesecake served with an aged Banyul.   The wine-food pairings were superb.  The Inn’s breakfast parlor is an enclosed porch with views of mountains and conifers, and when filled with soft candlelight it is as romantic as you would find in Provence or Tuscany. 

Gayle designed and David recently constructed a romantic hide-a-way cellar for their 2000 bottles of collectible wines.  The temperature-controlled cellar features faux leather walls, antique gold-leaf floor and David's collection of antique corkscrews and wine cellar collectibles. Be sure to wear a sweater and carry a wineglass with you for the cellar tour. David also makes wine, so ask for a sample of his latest effort made from Georgia grapes.

Beechwood Inn sponsored special events and packages focus on wine education activities such as wine dinners at local restaurants, tours and small wine conferences.  The Inn recently secured a retail wine license and it offers a selection of Georgia and other fine wines.  David and Gayle also arrange wine tours to local wineries.  They scheduled a number of wine tours for us to local wineries.  The clear highlight was a tour and private tasting at Tiger Mountain Winery hosted by co-owner/winemaker Bill Stack.  This small winery was founded 4 years ago by urologist John Ezzard and attorney Bill Stack. .Most of the grapes are on grown on John's family farm (he is the fifth generation farmer). Bill has a nearby apple orchard and vineyard.  Together their families choose to produce quality Vinifera grapes; wines from grapes suited to Northern Georgia's cool Mountain Viticultural region.  They have experimented with Touriga Nationale, Tannat, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Malbec and several other lesser known Varietals and native Cynthiana-Norton. Their success was recently recognized at the 2001 AWS Commercial Competition where Tiger Mountain Winery collected an unheard of 5 medals including Gold for their 1999 Cabernet Franc, competing against a crowded field of French and California entries. 

Bill offered us a barrel tasting of their latest vintage wines and provided an informative discussion on their viticulture and winemaking techniques.  Tiger Mountain is clearly a winery that will secure a national reputation for its wines.  Ask David or Gayle to arrange a visit to this small winery.  You will not regret the experience.  Other local wineries that you should include on your itinerary include Three Sisters Vineyards and Frogtowne Vineyards in Dahlonega, Habersham Winery in Helen, Crane Creek Vineyards in Young Harris and the very large and tourist oriented Chateau Elan.  New wineries expected to open in the next year include Wolf Creek in Tiger, Persimmon Creek in and Chota in Clayton.

We award the Beechwood Inn the five Pineapples Award for hospitality. The pineapple has been the symbol of hospitality since the mid-1600s, when sea captains would place pineapples brought back from the West Indies outside their doors as a sign that they had returned from their seagoing voyages and were welcoming visitors. Fromtheir warm, genuine greeting on our arrival, to the wine and hors d'oeuvres that were set in front of the common living room's cozy fireplace, it took no time at all for us to feel asif we were staying with family or old friends.

If you had friends or family who lived along the Georgia Wine Trail that were kind enough to invite you to come and stay, you'd want them to own a place just like this. The Historic Beechwood Inn is a delight.  David and Gayle offer guests a variety of  seasonal packages that include wine dinners at local restaurants, wine tastings, tours, and tickets to local events. Best of all, unlike friends and family who might invite you to stay with them once a year if you're lucky and bring good gifts, you're literally welcome at the Beechwood Inn any time you fancy an escape to a vibrant North Georgia Mountain Retreat. From spring's blossoms, to the booming summer mountain festivals, to fall's colorful shadings and Foxfire events, to the holiday season when the mountains are decked out for Christmas, the northeast Georgia Mountains offer an ever-changing swirl of activities.  If you plan just right, you might even be able to participate in an event of the newly formed Foxfire Chapter of AWS (yes, she's at it again!). This comfortable B&B is the perfect place to put up your feet after a day of embracing it all.

© Ms Jennifer Whitford Stoddard is the new Chair of the Garden City Chapter of the AWS in Augusta, GA.  She and her husband Jeff are avid Bicyclists and students of fine wine.  Jennifer is also a doctoral candidate of psychology at the University of Georgia.

 Amuse: Skordelia, Pita Chips with Spinach, Walnut and Garlic Puree, 2009 Beechwood Inn Chardonnay, GA

 Appetizer: Dolmas, Grape Leaves Stuffed with Rice and Olives, 2005 Jose Pariente Bodegas y Vinedos Dos Vistorias, Rueda, Spain        

Salad: Feta, Orange Segments, Fresh Local Greens with Greek Olive Oil and Walnut Vinegar

 Entrée: Spit Roasted Leg of Lamb with Fresh Herbs, Tzatziki – Yogurt Garlic and Cucumber Slaw, Golden Roasted Potatoes, Fall Vegetables with Garlic Sauce, Warm Greek Bread, 2000 Teldeschi, Terranova Dry Creek Valley Estate Proprietor’s Reserve, CA         

Dessert: Galatoboureko, Citrus Flavored Custard in Phyllo Pastry with Honey Syrup, Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

Substitutions for a small additional charge.

Amuse: Orange Aperol Sun and Crostini with Fennel Sausage,  

Appetizer: House-made Spinach Ravioli with Tomatoes, Garlic and Basil, 2008 Rubiro Montepulciano, De Abruzzo, Italy

 Salad: Antipasti of Fall Greens, Capicola, Tuscan Olives and Gorgonzola, Aged Balsamic Dressing, Warm Chiabatta with Local Butter and Black Truffles

 Entrée: Arista, Pork Roasted the Tuscan Way, Fennel, Proscuitto and Parsley with Shaved Parmesan, 2007 Parusso Langhe Nebbiola, Piedmont

Dessert: Chocolate Almond Caramel Budino, Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

Substitutions for a small additional charge.

The Inn's Dining Room is perfect for small family gatherings, corporate retreats and freinds' get-to-gethers. Our Chef's specialty is wonderful themed multi-course wine dinners.  Here are some of the themes we offer: 

• Tuscan/Italian Cuisine: The essence of Italian cuisine includes authentic sauces, homemade pastas and gnocchi’s’, pestos, duck, veal, and desserts.
• Mediterranean Cuisine:  These include bold and robust foods and flavors from Spain, Italy, Southern France, Greece, Algeria, Morocco, etc. Sample foods include: Gougères, fresh and local salads, olives, olive oils, exotic couscous, shellfish and sea foods, chicken tangine, paella, tapas.
• Santa Fe, New Mexico Cuisine: We love to go to Santa Fe because the fusion of Native American, Latin America, Spain and the Southwest play such a vital role in defining the flavors of the foods. Dishes include: salsas, moles, relishes, tortillas, empanadas, ceviches, smoked and dried peppers, chicken, cabrito, flans.
• Asian Pacific Rim Cuisine: This cuisine features foods from around the Western Rim of the Pacific starting at Korea, China and Japan in the North and moving South to the Philippines, Indonesia, Thailand and the Atolls of the South Pacific. Sample dishes include: Asian Sauces, Wasabi & Sashimi, Sesame Crusted Shrimp, Tempura, Thai Basil Rolls, Curries, Asian Oils, Gyoza, Beef Panang.

Wine Tastings:  Would you like a personal wine tasting for you and your friends?  Our Sommelier can set up beginer, itermediate and advanced wine tastings.  Just let us know what your interests are and we will exceed your expectations.  Costs for wine tastings start at $15.00 per person.

The enjoyment of food is as much visual as it is about taste and smell. Both Gayle and I care about how food is presented to us. Maybe it’s because of our artistic backgrounds. Before I became a chef I was an artist, specifically a painter, as was my mother. Gayle is a musician and comes from a family of musicians. Now, looking back after long careers, we can see that the connection between cooking and art is pretty direct.

Food presentation goes beyond the arrangement of finished ingredients on a plate. We decorate around food, making our tables beautiful, honoring community with flowers. It is also a reflection of the specific chef’s background, experience and the venue in which the chef practices.  The chef in a cafeteria may sparingly dole out few sprigs of parsley, while a chef in a four-star restaurant is thinking about geometric plates, architecturally stacked ingredients and garnishes that emphasize dramatic and colorful presentations. 

At the Beechwood Inn most of our recipes have a number of flavor components; layers of tastes that work nicely together. But our recipes also factor-in how foods and garnishes look together. As chefs we take pleasure in food, and ‘working the plate” is a part of that pleasure. Gayle and I both plan the ingredients and think about presentations long before the Salmon is placed in the pan. In fact, our staff affectionately refers to Gayle as the “Garnish Goddess.”

By creatively plating you can visually stimulate your diner's appetite and imagination. The most exciting plate presentations arouse interest and a sense of gastronomic expectancy. Here are some of the principles we keep in mind as we prepare plates for presentation:

The Concepts: Plate presentation concepts are similar to fine art. The chef works with a palette of different colors, shapes, textures, and flavors, and arranges them with the principles of artistic composition in mind: balance, harmony, and contrast.  The most important thing to keep in mind is that the main ingredients remain the focal point. The way you showcase them should never overwhelm, clash with, or obscure them.

Add to these simple concepts an attempt to avoid repetition and trite standbys (such as the ubiquitous parsley), and you'll be able to create attractive, enticing plates every time.

The Tools: The most important and dramatic tool a chef can use is the plate itself. Wide choices in color, shape, and size offer a multitude of opportunities to create harmony or contrast, or simply serve as a blank canvas that lets the food speak for itself. Keep different materials in mind such as etched glass, clear glass, and even glass bricks are perfect for serving chilled salads, smoked salmon, and other raw items. Clear glass conveys a cool freshness.

Also consider plate designs as a way to underscore the theme or cuisine of your dinner.  We have a colorful “Acapulco” pattern of plates reserved for use with Hispanic themed dinners. Chef Thomas Keller of The French Laundry in Yountville, CA, has an array of plate styles for service. A table might feature a number of different plate designs, each chosen to complement diners' individual food selections.

How you arrange the food on your plates is another aspect of presentation. When serving more than one item, consider Asian design principles, an odd number of items or asymmetrical placement will look more intriguing than a two-by-two or grid-like arrangement.

Gayle and I have seen (and been guilty of practicing) intricate architectural stacking and towering.  For one recent dinner we began with a dollop of sauce topped with a round of polenta, topped that with a pork belly medallion, which was layered with a bed of caramelized onions, and topped with a vertical sprig of greenery. If restrained, stacking remains an effective and dramatic technique. However, too much altitude can border on the bizarre. Remember, simplicity can make a design statement all by itself.

Other principles to keep in mind include avoiding portions that are too small in relation to plate size, or portions that are too big, such as the off-putting chicken fried steak the size of a small throw-rug.

We often use complementary and colorful sauces, reductions and coulis. For example, a pair of colorful, contrasting sauces creatively "painted" or drizzled on the plate will enhance appetizers, main courses, and desserts. We make colorful paints of grilled peppers, fruit, and chocolates that we can squirt into patterns using a squeeze bottle.  

Herbs such as torn basil or sprigs of fresh dill and seasonings such as pepper flakes can accent flavor while adding color contrast. Greenery - curly endive, cress, or pea shoots, for example -and nuts or seeds such as black mustard, cracked coriander, or sunflower also add taste and visual interest. Artfully carved produce items make excellent garnishes – such as our radish mice. Two principles to keep in mind: they should be fresh and in season, and serve as an enhancement to the item they're garnishing. We grow and garnish with organic edible flowers as well. Importantly, never put anything on a plate that is not edible.

Even the tried-and-true lemon, probably the most common pairing for seafood, can make a dramatic impression if looked at in a different way. We will cut a millimeter-thin strip of zest pared all the way around the cut edge of the fruit, and then loosely knot it in the middle, creating a Zen-like presentation. For the finishing touch use props like colorful folded napkins table runners and flowers.

Color, texture, shapes, and arrangements work together for the art of plate presentation. However, to get full measure for your splendid work make sure that the food and the garnishes tastes good as well. Present it as a combination of taste and aesthetics. Feast your eyes and your palate for that wonderful dinner experience. Bon Appetit!

By David Darugh, Executive Chef, Beechwood Inn; Gayle Darugh, Pastry Chef and Garnish Goddess, Beechwood Inn. The Inn features Saturday Night Chef’s Table Tasting Dinners using the best of local, organic and sustainable products from Georgia farms, vineyards and orchards.

 Aperitif: Pastry Filled with Figs, Dates, Feta, Pine Nuts Honey and Benton’s Bacon Stingers, with Mediterranean Spices, 2009 Beechwood Inn Viognier, GA

 Appetizer: Lobster Bisque with Lobster Ravioli and Aged Sherry, 2009 Cortijo Rosè, Spain

 Salad: Seared Ahi Tuna with Black Sesame Seeds on Organic Micro-Greens, with Sesame Lime Dressing

 Intermezzo: Asian Pear and Lavender Sorbet

 Entrée: Medallions of Organic Pink Veal (Humanely Raised), with Garlic Butter, Potatoes Anna Gratin, Late Summer Vegetables, Baguettes with Creamery Butter, 2007 Seven Artisans Petite Sirah, Suisun Valley, CA       

Dessert: Lemon Souffle Cakes with Soft Cream, Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb teas

Drive a Hybrid car to the Beechwood Inn and stay for a minimum of two nights and we will give you a $25.00 discount off your total bill. And, if you come stay at least two days including Earth Day 2010 (April 22) you can save $50.00. 

Please be sure to mention that you will drive a hybrid vehicle to the Beechwood Inn when you make your reservation as this is when we create an invoice for your visit.

Click here for a list of qualifying vehicles.

Author and Herbalist Patricia Kyritsi Howell of  BotanoLogos School for Herbal Studies, offer guests the opportunity to forage for dinner. Ms. Howell is a registered herbalist and the author of "Medicinal Plants of the Southern Appalachians."  She teaches classes in herbal medicines and wild edibles. She also instructs at Emory University, Fernbank and John C. Campbell Folk School.. The Beechwood Inn features Northeast Georgia's only Wine Spectator Award of Excellence restaurant and offers regional and California- Mediterranean dinners featuring fresh and local Georgia products.

David Darugh, the Inn's Executive Chef offers culinary classes that give guests the opportunity to visit local gardens, orchards and vineyards to "pick" their own fresh and local dinner.  In collaboration with Ms. Howell, more adventurous guests can now schedule a culinary class that will permit them to "forage" for their dinner.  Classes are scheduled to coincide with nature’s seasonal generosity.  

Let us serve you a fresh and local wild foods dinner in the Beechwood Inn Dining Room.  Seasonal dinners may include berries of all varieties, ramps, fiddle head ferns, sunchokes, radishes, roots, greens of many types, morels, nuts, beans, seeds and of course local trout.  And Sumac tea as a beverage. This experience is for the culinary tourist with a curious palette. Local Georgia wines will be served with each of the courses.

Menu

 Friday Appetizers

Spring Rolls with Assorted Wild Greens

Elderberry Dipping Sauce

Smoked Trout Pate

Moroccan Style Wild Greens with Goat Cheese

Local Georgia Wines

Saturday Dinner

Appetizers:

Day Lilies Stuffed with Wild Rice and Mustard Flowers

Middle Eastern Style Wild Greens Dip

Roasted Burdock Roots

Garlic Scape Pesto

Soup: Cream of Ramp Soup with Chanterelles

Annie's Organic Bread with Spring Ridge Creamery Butter

Salad: Wilted Greens Salad with Fiddle Head Ferns

Elderberry Vinaigrette

 Entrée: Pan Seared Local Trout with Lemon-Mushroom Sauce

Polenta with Wild Seeds

Sauteed Apron Greens

 Local Georgia Wines

Dessert: Sassafras Sorbet

Roasted Dandelion Root Ice Cream

Elder Flower Fritters with Wild Cherry Sauce

Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

 Recipes:

Wild Greens Spring Rolls with Dipping Sauce

      1 pkg. round rice paper wrappers

      1 package of cellophane noodles soaked in hot water for 20 minutes until tender

      1/2 cup fresh sprouts

      1 bunch fresh Thai Basil

      3 Tbsp. grated fresh ginger

      ½ cup fresh coriander (cilantro), roughly chopped

      3 green onions, finely sliced

      3 ounces pimento strips

      3 cups shredded greens  (Mizuna, Water Cress, Wild Spinach, Dandelions, Chicory, Chick Weed)

      2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar

      3 Tbsp. fresh squeezed lime juice

      ¼ cup toasted sesame seed oil

      Grated rind from 1 lime

Toss all roll ingredients together in a bowl, except rice wrappers and Thai Basil.  Fill a large bowl with hot water (but not too hot, as you’ll be dipping your fingers in it). Start by submerging one wrapper into the water. It should soften after 30 seconds. Remove and place on a clean surface.  Add another wrapper to the hot water as you fill and roll the first one.

Place heaping Tbsp of the ingredients on the rice paper, about 1-inch from the bottom, leaving about 1-inch on each side. Spread out the ingredients horizontally (in the shape of the roll). Arrange about 3 Thai Basil leaves on the ingredients.

Pull the bottom inch of rice paper over the filling and roll halfway up, wrapping tightly. Fold the sides over the filling and continue to roll up. Place seam side down on a plate and cover with a damp paper towel. Repeat with remaining rice paper wrappers and filling. Keep in refrigerator until ready to serve. Drizzle each spring roll with dipping sauce. This amount of ingredients should make about 16 – 18 rolls. As a serving suggestion we first paint the plate with sauce by squeezing an artistic drizzle on each plate. We then slice each roll in half and lean one of the halves against the other. Place a Coriander branch across the top.

Elderberry Dipping Sauce

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon cayenne powder

1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika

2 tablespoons fresh mint, finely chopped

1 cup thick Greek yogurt

¼ cup elderberry syrup

Combine garlic, cumin, cayenne, paprika, mint and yogurt in a bowl. Stir in elderberry syrup just enough to swirl it through the yogurt sauce but leaving the colors separate. Chill for one hour.              Recipe by P. K. Howell

Smoked Trout Pate

3 whole(s) (about 1 1/4 pounds total) smoked trout

            1 package(s) (8-ounce) whipped cream cheese

            1/4 cup(s) low-fat mayonnaise dressing

            3 tablespoon(s) fresh lemon juice

            1/8 teaspoon(s) ground black pepper

            1 tablespoon(s) minced chives or green onion

            Chives, for garnish

            Assorted crackers

            Cucumber slices

Cut head and tail from each trout; remove skin and bones and discard. In food processor with knife blade attached, blend trout, cream cheese, mayonnaise dressing, lemon juice, and black pepper until fine morsels remain.

Spoon trout mixture into medium bowl; stir in minced chives. Cover and refrigerate if not serving right away. Allow refrigerated pâté to stand at room temperature 15 minutes to soften before serving. Garnish with chives. Serve with crackers and cucumber slices.

Garlicky Sautéed Greens  

1 pound mixed wild and cultivated greens

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

2-3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and cut into small pieces

2-3 tablespoons water

Pinch of ground black pepper

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1 ripe tomato, halved, seeded and grated

Wash, stem and roughly shred greens. No need to dry the greens before cooking.

In medium frying pan, heat the oil and garlic. Sautee until golden, about 2 minutes.  Add the anchovies and crush to a puree, mixing them with the garlic. Gradually add the greens, one or two handfuls at a time, letting greens wilt completely before adding more. Add the water and cook, covered, over medium heat until tender, about ten minutes. Season with pepper and pepper flakes, and salt. Stir in the grated tomato and boil down, stirring constantly, about 1 minute. Adjust seasonings. Serve at room temperature with lemon wedges.

                                                                        Serves 2 as a side dish.

Moroccan-Style Wild Greens Spread

with Goat Cheese

(inspired by a recipe by Paula Wolfert)

1 pound mixed wild and cultivated greens (include about 1/3 mild flavored greens such as spinach or nettles if using strongly bitter wild greens such as dandelion or chicory)

4 oz. flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped

3 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 oz cilantro, chopped

¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of hot pepper (cayenne)

¼ teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

Juice of ½ lemon or more to taste

Zest of one lemon

6 ounces chevre-style goat cheese

Wash the greens. Shake off water, remove stems and chop roughly. Steam greens with parsley and garlic until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove to colander and cool for five minutes. Remove the garlic. Squeeze as much moisture as possible from the greens and chop finely. Peel the garlic; place it in a mortar and combine with cilantro and salt, crush together and mix until it makes a smooth paste.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan and add the garlic paste and chopped greens. Cook over medium-low heat until all the liquid evaporates, keeping the mixture moving around the pan so it doesn’t burn, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and blend in the paprika, hot pepper, cumin and lemon juice. Cool slightly, and then beat in enough olive oil to give it the texture of mashed potatoes. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.

Correct the seasonings with more salt, cumin, and lemon juice if needed. Mix in the goat cheese.

Spread the mixture out in a circle on a plate and create a slight hollow in the middle. Drizzle olive oil and lemon zest on top. Serve with crackers or bread.

                                                                       Serves four as an appetizer

Daylily or Squash Blossom  Appetizers

Daylily or Squash blossoms,  picked early in the morning

1 1/2 C Basmati rice

3 C.      Water

4 oz.     asiago or parmesan reggiano, grated

1 C.      onion, diced

5 cloves minced garlic

1/2 C.   Freshly daylily petals, chopped, or a mixture with mustard or other pungent flowers.

1/2 C    fresh dill, chopped

 Clean daylilies: Pull out stamen and pistles (long strands emerging from anther of flower), cut off end just above the green end. Remove all bugs.

 Sauté onions and garlic until soft.  Add the rice/cheese mixture, fresh dill and flowers.  Warm thoroughly over medium heat, stirring frequently.

 Allow mixture to cool slightly.  Put about 1 Tbsp of rice mixture in each flower, gently!  Arrange on platter.                                        Serves: 20 people:

 Middle Eastern-Style Wild Greens

(Recipe by Paula Wolfert)

 1 pound mild greens (Swiss chard, nettles, mallow, spinach)

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 ounces of tahini sauce (recipe below)

salt

black pepper

powdered sumac seeds

                                     Tahini sauce

4 ounces tahini

3 tablespoons lemon juice

3 tablespoons iced water

1 crushed garlic clove.

 Steam the greens until tender. Remove from heat and put into a colander. Drain well and press out all excess moisture. In large frying pan, sauté garlic in oil until golden, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the steamed greens and cook, breaking apart the greens and stirring, 1 minute. Remove from heat and cool.

 To make tahini sauce, combine tahini with lemon juice in a food processor until completely blended, add ice water, salt and garlic, process until smooth. Thin with additional cold water to make a total of four ounce of sauce.

 In a bowl, combine the greens with 5 tablespoons of the prepared tahini sauce, mix until completely blended. Correct seasoning with salt and pepper. Place in a shallow dish, thin the remaining tahini sauce with water until the consistency of cream soup. Drizzle over the greens  and sprinkle with sumac powder. 

                                                                         Serves 4 as an appetizer

 Oven Roasted Burdock Roots 

Burdock roots (about one 16 inch root for two people)

salt

olive oil

 Preheat oven to 450.

 Clean burdock roots and cut into four inch lengths, then cut length-wise into quarters. Toss in olive and sprinkle with salt.

 Put a baking sheet in the oven for ten minutes. Remove and toss the burdock roots, spreading them evenly across the pan. Bake in the oven for 20 minutes. Stir around a bit and cook for about 5 more minutes.

 Serve immediately.                                 Appetizer recipe by P. K. Howell

 Garlic Scape Pesto

Garlic Scapes are the wild and curly shoots that spring from the tops of garlic plants.  They're brilliantly green and grow corkscrewed. They've got a mild garlic fragrance and a mellow garlic flavor. It's got a freshness that garlic loses as it develops. The scapes, which look as beautiful in the garden as they do at the market, are meant to be cut  - cutting them strengthens the garlic bulbs that are growing underground - so it's a win-win for the garlic and us. We use the scapes as a garnish – just pour some olive oil on them, grill them until their crisp/limp and then lightly salt them.   

Scapes are fleeting, their only available about 10 days each year. Here’s my recipe for Scape

10 garlic scapes, finely chopped

1/2 cup finely grated Parmesan Reggiano

1/3 cup toasted pine nuts (for a variation use black walnuts)

6 Basil leaves

About 1/2 cup olive oil

Sea salt

Squeeze of fresh lemon or lime juice

Put the scapes, cheese, pine nuts, Basil and half the olive oil in the bowl of a food processor (or use a blender or a mortar and pestle).  Whir to chop and blend all the ingredients and then add the remainder of the oil.  If you like the texture, stop; if you'd like it a little thinner, add some more oil.  Season with salt.

If you're not going to use the pesto immediately, press a piece of plastic against the surface to keep it from oxidizing. The pesto can be stored in the refrigerator for a couple of days or packed airtight and frozen for a couple of months.                 

                                                                                    Makes about 1 cu

Potato Ramp Soup Recipe

This rich, comforting twist on potato leek soup features a nice bite from the wild ramps.   If desired, this vegetarian soup recipe can easily be made vegan by omitting the cream.  It’ll still be incredibly smooth and creamy thanks to the potatoes, the tablespoon of cream just takes it one decadent step further.

Ingredients: (makes 4 servings)
1 quart Chicken or Vegetable Stock
6 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, medium diced
A splash of Champagne Vinegar
1 tsp Lemon Juice, fresh squeezed
½ Onion, small diced
15 Fresh Ramps
2 cloves Garlic, sliced
¼ cup White Wine
Fresh Thyme for garnish
Salt & Pepper to taste
Optional: ½  Cup Heavy Cream, Pickled Ramps

1. Sweat the onions in olive oil.

2. Add whole (cleaned ramps), the garlic, and white wine.

3. Once the alcohol has cooked off, add the potatoes and the chicken stock.

4. Bring to a simmer, and cook for 25 minutes.

5. Puree the soup (we recommend using an immersion blender, but you can use a normal blender, just be careful pouring the hot soup).

6. Stir in the vinegar & lemon juice.  Taste for seasoning, then add salt and pepper as needed.

7. If desired, stir in the heavy cream and/or garnish with pickled ramps.  Top with fresh thyme leaves & serve with a nice piece of crusty bread.

 Wilted Greens Salad with Fiddlehead Ferns

and

Elderberry Vinaigrette

 Wilted Greens Salad

1 pound assorted wild greens such as dandelion, chicory, violet leaves, chickweed or a combination of domestic greens with strong flavor such as endive, escarole, arugula, dandelion greens)

2.5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 or 5 cloves garlic, minced

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

Wash and dry dandelions. Cut in into 3 inch pieces, removing any large center stems.

In a large fry pan, heat the olive oil slightly and add garlic and shallot. Cook about 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently, until garlic and shallots are starting to brown. Remove from heat, stir in the vinegar and mix well. Add the dandelion leaves and toss to coat with the dressing. Serve immediately.

Elderberry Vinaigrette

½ cup olive oil

3 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons elderberry syrup

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground black pepper

 Mix all ingredients together. Mixture should be very tart, add more vinegar if needed.

 Pan Seared Local Trout with

Lemon-Mushroom Sauce 

  8 Trout fillets -- 4-6 ounces each

1 Tbls Lemon juice

1/4 Tsp Salt

/2 cup buttermilk

1 Egg -- beaten

3 Tbls Butter

1 ½  cups sliced wild mushrooms

2 Tbls Parsley -- minced

1 Tbls Lemon juice

1/2 Tsp Salt

1 3/8 Tsp Pepper

1 tsp Hot sauce

1/2 cup Dry bread crumbs

Lemon wedges

Sprinkle each fillet with one teaspoon of lemon juice and salt. Mix the buttermilk with the egg, dip fish in the mixture, then coat with fine crumbs. Saute trout in 2 tablespoon of butter until they are brown on both sides and flesh flakes easily, then remove to warm plates. Raise heat to high, add the remaining tablespoon of butter to the hot pan, stir in mushrooms, parsley and one tablespoon of lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Spoon one third of the mushroom mixture on top of fillets. Serve hot sauce and lemon wedges with trout.

Sauce

1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

      6 tablespoons butter or margarine, divided

      2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

      1/3 cup all-purpose flour (or Arrowroot for Gluten Free)

      1/4 teaspoon salt

      4 (6 ounce) fillets trout

      1/3 cup heavy whipping cream

      1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

In a large skillet, saute mushrooms in 2 tablespoons butter until tender. Stir in parsley. Remove mushrooms to a serving platter; keep warm. Combine flour and salt in a shallow dish; coat fillets with flour mixture on both sides. Add 2 tablespoons butter to the skillet. Cook trout over medium heat for 8-10 minutes on each side or until fish flakes easily with a fork; arrange over mushrooms.

For sauce, melt remaining butter in a small saucepan. Gradually stir in cream and lemon juice. Bring to a boil for 3-4 minutes or until slightly thickened, stirring constantly. Serve over trout and mushrooms.

Moroccan-Style Wild Greens Spread

with Goat Cheese

(inspired by a recipe by Paula Wolfert)

 1 pound mixed wild and cultivated greens (include about 1/3 mild flavored greens such as spinach or nettles if using strongly bitter wild greens such as dandelion or chicory)

4 oz. flat leaf parsley leaves, chopped

3 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 oz cilantro, chopped

¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pinch of hot pepper (cayenne)

¼ teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

Juice of ½ lemon or more to taste

Zest of one lemon

6 ounces chevre-style goat cheese

Wash the greens. Shake off water, remove stems and chop roughly. Steam greens with parsley and garlic until tender, about 15 minutes. Remove to colander and cool for five minutes. Remove the garlic. Squeeze as much moisture as possible from the greens and chop finely. Peel the garlic; place it in a mortar and combine with cilantro and salt, crush together and mix until it makes a smooth paste.

 Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large frying pan and add the garlic paste and chopped greens. Cook over medium-low heat until all the liquid evaporates, keeping the mixture moving around the pan so it doesn’t burn, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and blend in the paprika, hot pepper, cumin and lemon juice. Cool slightly, and then beat in enough olive oil to give it the texture of mashed potatoes. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.

Correct the seasonings with more salt, cumin, and lemon juice if needed. Mix in the goat cheese.

Spread the mixture out in a circle on a plate and create a slight hollow in the middle. Drizzle olive oil and lemon zest on top. Serve with crackers or bread.

                                                                        Serves four as an app

Polenta Cakes with Wild Seeds

1 teaspoon salt
2 cups cornmeal

4 cups water

4 cups milk

1 tablespoon salt

1 ounce unsalted butter (1/4 stick)

½ cup grated parmesan cheese

1 cup or more, dry roasted and hulled, yellow dock seeds (see below)

1 cup amaranth, dry roasted

1 to 2 cups of fresh chanterelle mushrooms, coarsely chopped

Heat a cast iron pan over medium heat. Add yellow dock seeds and stir constantly for about 10 minutes. Place in a bowl and allow to cool slightly. Rub the seeds between your palms to remove the tiny papery seed hulls and pour them a wire sieve and shake to separate hulls completely from the seeds. Set aside.

Pan roast the amaranth seeds as described above until they start to pop, about 10 minutes and darken. Stir frequently. Remove from pan and mix with prepared yellow dock seeds.

Bring water and milk to a boil in a large heavy pot. Add salt and reduce heat until water is simmering. Take cornmeal by the handful and add to water very slowly, letting only a thin stream of cornmeal flow through your fingers. Take your time! Stir quickly with a wire whisk while adding cornmeal. If necessary, stop from time to time and beat mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon before adding more cornmeal.

Continue to cook polenta, stirring constantly, 35 to 40 minutes. Polenta will become very thick while cooking.

When the polenta is nearly done (it is done when it comes away cleanly from the sides of the pot) add roasted seeds, cheese and mushrooms. Stir well to mix everything completely.

Pour polenta into a lightly oiled sheet pan. Wet your hands and smooth out evenly, about 2 inches thick. Refrigerate until completely solid, about 2 hours. Cut cooled polenta into pieces about four inches square.

Heat large non-stick skillet with olive oil to medium high heat. Place slices in skillet and cook until golden brown, about 5 – 8 minutes.  Turn over and brown on other side.  Drain on paper towels. Serve hot, covered with your favorite sauce.                                                         

                                                                        Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Elderflower Fritters

6 large elderflower heads

1 cup flour, unbleached

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

2 eggs

½ cup milk

oil (for frying)

¼ cup powdered sugar

Wash flowers clusters by spraying gently or dipping in water and placing face down on towels to drain. Handle with extreme care so the flower petals don’t fall off!

Make the batter by mixing flour, sugar, baking powder, eggs and milk. Add more milk if needed to make a thin batter.

Place the powdered sugar in a small bowl.

Make the fritters by holding the flowers by the stem and dipping the flower heads into batter to completely coat. Quickly fry in oil (375F on frying thermometer) for 4 minutes, or until they are golden brown.

Drain on absorbent paper. After a few minutes, turn the fritters over and sprinkle with a small amount of powdered sugar and drizzle with Crab Apple and Cherry Sauce.  You may also use honey or your favorite jam. Serve immediately.

Sassafras Sorbet

3 pounds  ripe Asian or Bartlett pears, cored, peeled, and chopped

1 1/2  cups  extra-dry or brut sparkling wine, divided (see Notes)

3/4  cup  sugar

2  tablespoons  light corn syrup

2 cups strong sassafras tea 

Preparation

Put pears and 3/4 cup sparkling wine in a medium pan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to maintain a steady simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pears are tender, about 10 minutes. Whirl pear mixture, sassafras tea and sugar in a blender until smooth. Stir in corn syrup, cover, and chill.

When mixture is cold, stir in remaining 3/4 cup sparkling wine and freeze in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Serve immediately, or transfer to a freezer-safe container, cover, and freeze until ready to serve.

 Roasted Dandelion Root Ice Cream

1/2 gallon vanilla ice cream

1/2 C. Dandy Blend (roasted dandelion root powder)

 Allow ice cream to become soft.  Add roasted dandelion root powder and stir until evenly combined.  Refreeze ice cream.

• Luxury lodging in one of our queen suites or in the secluded Blueberry Cottage (King Suite $20 more)
• Chilled Sparkling Wine in your suite (Real French Champagne is also available)
• An exquisite seasonal flower arrangement by one of the areas most creative florists delivered to your room prior to arrival 
• Chocolate truffles custom made and packaged in a decorative container 
• Southern breakfast for two each morning
• Pair of Keepsake Beechwood Inn Champagne flutes

60 Minute Therapeutic Massage can be added starting at $75.00/person based on therapist and availability). 

Kingwood Resort: Spa. (706) 212-4125 http://www.kingwoodresort.com/

Mind and Body Haven, 8538 Old 441 S. Lakemont (706) 212-0062 http://www.mindandbodyhaven.com/

Occasionally we are able to offer discounted rates for rooms booked at the last minute. These rooms normally are available Sunday through Thursday, but may be available anytime depending on the circumstances. Last Minute Get-Away Discounts are available no earlier than 24 hours prior to the desired arrival date. To inquire about the availability and rates for the date you are interested in please call us (706) 782-5485. 

This special is not available through our online booking engine "Webervations."  

Thanksgiving dinner is $70 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Family-style dinner at 4:00pm.

Aperitif:

Mont Marcal Sparkling Brut Rose, Cava Reserva (Spain)

Salad:

Fresh Citrus Salad with Candied Pecans, Local Greens, Gorgonzola and Citrus Vinaigrette

Entrée:

Roast Brined Tom Turkey with Sweet Ancho Pepper Glaze

Arista – Traditional Pork Loin with Filled with Apples, Nuts and Dried Cranberries

Sausage and Wild Mushroom Dressing

Giblet and White Wine Gravy

Candied Yams with Ginger and Bourbon

Pureed Yukon Gold Potatoes with Garlic and Buttermilk

Oven Roasted Vegetables with Garlic sauce

Jalapeño Cranberry Sauce

Corn Bread and Fresh Butter

Dessert:

Caramelized Pear Gingerbread Tart with Molasses Ice Cream

Gayle’s Pecan Pumpkin Mousse Pie

Hot Tea and Coffee

The tradition of dressing in costume for Halloween has both European and Celtic roots. Hundreds of years ago, winter was an uncertain and frightening time. On Halloween, when it was believed that ghosts came back to the earthly world, people thought that they would encounter ghosts if they left their homes. To avoid being recognized by these ghosts, people would wear masks when they left their homes after dark so that the ghosts would mistake them for fellow spirits.

On Halloween local thespian David Fore will entertain and, perhaps, scare you a little. He will sing, play guitar and spin you a tale about ghosts at the Beechwood Inn. We will dim the lights and set a fire in the hearth to keep away the evil spirits. We trust that this will keep you safe.

Dinner and tails, whoops, we mean tales $85.00 per person.

Aperitif:

Mini Crab Cakes with Citrus Scented Garlic Aioli

2008 Beechwood Inn Viognier

Appetizer:

Maple-Lacquered Quail with Butternut Squash Risotto with Shallot Pecan Jus

2003 Hewitson Ancient Vines Grenache/Shiraz, Australia

Salad:

Almond-Fried Goat Cheese Brie with Cranberry Walnut Chutney and Local Arugula

Warm Organic Herb Bread

Entrée:

Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with Gruyere Potato Fondue

Steamed Autumn Vegetables

Apollonio Copertino Riserva, Puglia, Italy

Dessert:

Warm Molten Chocolate Cakes with Chocolate Sauce

10 Year Old Tawny Port

Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

Dinner and wines $65.00 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

 Amuse: Lobster Puffs, Lobster and Fresh Herbs in Puff Pastry with Garlic Aioli, 2009 Beechwood Inn Chardonnay

 Appetizer: Penne Pasta with Last of the Summer Fresh Basil Pesto, Tomato Confit with Fennel Pollen, 2008 Poppy Pinot Noir, California

 Salad: Seared Duck Breast with Wild Crabapple Remoulade on Micro-Greens, Balsamic Reduction, warm Organic Herb Bread with Spring Ridge Creamery Butter  

Entrée: Pan Seared Sea Bass with Tomato Water Reduction, Citrus Scented Wild Rice with Fresh Herbs, Autumn Vegetables with Garlic Sauce, 2005 Sonnet Pinot Noir, York Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mts, CA

 Dessert: Chocolate Almond Caramel Budino, Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

Yes, we are taking you to Italy via Babbo’s in New York City.  Mario Batali believes that olive oil is as precious as gold, that shorts and orange crocs re acceptable attire for every season, and food, like most things, is best when left to its own simple beauty. In addition, all the wines served this evening will be made by Mario’s partner Joe Bastianich.  Joe ventured into his ancestral Friuli-Venezia Giulia to create the acclaimed wine estate, Azienda Agricola Bastianich and into Maremma, Tuscany where he established the wine estate La Mozza s.r.l.Dinner and fine wines $85.00 per person, plus tax and gratuity.

 Dinner at Ristorante BaBBo

In the North Georgia Mountains

Recipes by Mario Batali

Wines by Joe Bastianich and the Italian Wine Merchants

Amuse: Bruschetta Di Mazzancolle Da Zaccaria

Fresh Shrimp Bruschetta with Garlic and Limoncello

2007 Bastianich Tocai Friulano

Appetizer: Seared Heirloom Berkshire Pork Belly with Shallot Butter Sauce and Sauternes

With Organic Ciabatta on Fresh Summer Beans

2006 Brandini Borolo, Piedmont

Salad: Traditional Panzanella Salad with 25 Year Old Balsamico

Intermezzo: Rose Petal and Raspberry Sorbet

Entrée: Bucatini All'amatriciana – Sauteed Pancetta, Heirloom Tomato Sauce on Bucatini Pasta with Pecorino Cheese

Grilled Peppers with Warm Goat Cheese and EVOO

Organic Herb Bread with Local Butter

2006 La Mozza Aragone

Dessert: Chocolate, Caramel, Amaretto Budino

2006 Bastianish Tocai Plus

Fresh Brewed Coffee 

Friday Evening at 5:30pm wine and appetizers. You will get to taste appetizers prepared from a number of wild ingredients.  

Saturday Morning Walk: At 8:30AM Immerse yourself in the lush cove forests of the Southern Appalachian Mountains to experience a taste of wildness as you forage for dinner. Herbalist Cindy Halbkat will lead the walk.  She is a noted herbalist and wild foods chef.  She teaches classes in herbal medicines and wild edibles.   The Friday morning walk begins as Ms. Halbkat introduces you to the many plants that have been used as foods and medicines by American Indians and local mountain people for generations. You will get to pick shoots and leaves, dig roots, pick berries and experience lots of new flavors while you learn about the unique ecology of the area and the use of wild foods. Wear comfortable hiking shoes. 

Saturday Night Gourmet Dinner: 5:30 Appetizers and Live Music by Mountain Hoodoo. On Saturday afternoon enjoy music Al Fresco - live music with wine and appetizers on our tree-top porch. Then, on Saturday night you will enjoy a unique multi-course dinner that showcases gourmet possibilities of combining local wild edibles with Rabun County farm produce all paired to wonderful regional wines.

• Wild Food Appetizers and wine tasting Friday afternoon at 5:30pm Complimentary for Beechwood Inn guests $25.00 for non-guests
• Visit to the local organic farm Friday Afternoon (optional)
• Complimentary glass of wine before dinner on Saturday with music by Mountain Hoodoo
• Multi-course Wild Foods Dinner Saturday night paired with regional wines
• A set of our recipes featuring wild ingredients

Stay the Weekend and Save $50.00: Stay Friday and Saturday and sign up for the Walk and Dinner and Save $50.00 per couple.

Joie Power of Hayesville, NC attended our wild foods dinner in June 2009 and e-mailed to say, "I've been to wild foods dinners before but nothing like this; this is the first one where I didn't feel like a grazing herbivore or one of the last surviving humans in some post-apocalyptic throw-back saga. Elegant and delicious!" 

Friday appetizers and wine complimentary for Beechwood Inn guests. Saturday dinner is $75.00 per person, plus tax and  gratuity. The Saturday morning guided foraging-herb walk is $25.00 per person. For more information contact the Beechwood Inn at (706) 782-5485 or visit our websites at www.beechwoodinn.ws  

This is what we expect our menu to be but it depends on what we find in the wild - so this is a dinner for the adventurous palette.

 Appetizer 1: Asian Tuna Tartare with Cucumbers, Chile Glaze and Chinese Flatbread, 2009 Beechwood Inn Viognier, GA

 Appetizer 2:Glazed Day Boat Scallops and Caper Almond Shallot Topping, 2005 Sonnet Pinot Noir, Tondre’s Vineyard, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA      

 Salad: Herbed Goat Cheese with Blood Oranges and Balsamic Reduction, with Baggette and Local Creamery Butter

 Entrée: Seared Pork Tenderloin Medallions, Pureed Yukon Gold Potatoes with Chives and Roasted Garlic, Orange Glazed Baby Carrots, 2003 Domaine St Damien Les Souteyrades (Weygandt), Gigondas, France

Dessert: White Chocolate Mousse with Caramel and Chocolate Sauces

 Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

Substitutions for a small additional fee.

 Amuse: Warm Olives with Fresh Herbs, 2009 Beechwood Inn Viognier, GA

 Appetizer: Pissaladdière, Caramelized Onion Tart, 2007 Mas de La Rouviere Rosé, Bandol, France

 Salad: Toasted Goat Cheese Salad with Benton’s Smoke House Bacon, Local Micro-Greens and Aged Balsamic Dressing

 Entrée: Grilled Pink Veal  with Herbs de Provence and Rouille (Red Pepper Mayonnaise), Potatoes Anna, Fall Vegetables with Garlic Sauce, Organic French Bread and Local Butter

 Dessert: Lemon Souffle Cakes with Soft Cream, Fresh Brewed Coffee and Herb Teas

Substitutions for a small additional charge.

All members of the AAA Auto Club are eligible to receive a 10% discount on their lodging.  This offer is subject to availability and the eligible member must occupy the room. Please ask for this discount at the time you make your reservation as that is when we create an invoice for your stay and calculate your deposit.  Also, please have your member identification available at check-in. This discount may not be combined with other discounts and is not applicable to Special Packages, Holidays and Events (e.g. New Year’s Package, Valentine’s Package).